Glen Denney, El Capitan film screening and slideshow, TR

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A5scott

Trad climber

Chicago

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 17, 2012 - 08:35pm PT

I read about Glen Denny heading to Louisville, KY for a screening/ Q&A of his film, followed up the next day with a slide show/Q&A... I didn't even have to think about it, I was going. 17 years ago, when I first started climbing, I became deeply interested in the Yosemite culture, gear and techniques, and climbers by reading such great books as Galen Rowell's The Vertical World of Yosemite, Camp 4, and of course John Long's books and stories. Louisville is an easy drive from Chicago, so i threw my sleeping bag in my car and started driving. I got to Louisville about a half hour early, so I went in, had a drink, and sat down in the theater. I was all geeked out with Glen's book hoping he could sign it, and someone there asked about the book, and showed me his copy of Camp 4, so we started talking about how many times we read them...

After the movie, Glenn answered a bunch of questions, some of which were more interesting than others... Apparently each roll of film would only hold 2 minutes of footage... whole lot of changing rolls! They had to splice the audio and film together as best they could, since they had the climbers mic'd on another track. Glen explained the scene when Gary Collver took a leader and cracked a rib... that actually happened during the day, and there was no film footage of that. They decided it had to be in the film so they just added it to a night scene which was pretty much only audio. haha... Lito Tejada Flores was a replacement climber, though Glen was happy about that after the fact because of his colorful presence on film. Glen asked if anyone had climbed The Nose, and none had. After the Q&A, I introduced myself, and called Glen out (GNAR style)... lol totally kidding about that... but I did say hello etc... thank you etc.. and see him the next day.

Day 2 started at the Waffle House and then to check out Louisville a bit. I went to Quest Outdoors to check out gear and see where the slideshow was. Chatted with climber there for a bit and then drove to their second location which was huge. Saw some climbers from the night before, talked for an hour or so, got some cord and a couple BD peckers, saw hottie girl with nice orange thong behind the counter, and then drove to check the local climbing gym, yawn, but better than spanking it in my car. The gym was ok, bought the new Climbing mag, since it was a big wall issue, then drove back for the slide show.

They had beer and snacks ready, and after everybody talking it up for a while, they started the show. Pretty much all the pics from Glen's book. After, he described how he got into climbing as a result of his fishing trips with his dad. He was looking at the mountains around him and wanted to push himself physically and mentally. He described one of his first solo trips to a peak that was considered the hardest at the time. He was 4th classing it and got off route and found himself unroped on 5th class. He back tracked and continued on.

His early time in the Valley was spent bussing tables, and he convinced his non climbing room mate to climb on their off days, but 4th class only since he only had a rope and a couple of other pieces of gear. It was then that he met Warren Harding, having recognized him from pictures in the paper. Warren asked Glen what he was climbing, and then Warren suggested that they do some real climbing together! Warren drove them over to the base of the Nutcracker, and opened his trunk to reveal a rats nest of gear... Warren gave a short lesson, roped up, and said how you always double check everything, don't forget anything... and then started asking where his hammer was! So still tied in with Glen belaying, Warren started walking back to the car to search for it, looking like a gumby in the process, and provoked Glen's room mate to ask quietly if this was really Warren Harding! Apparently Warren would do that type of stuff to the new guys. Glen went on to describe his ascent of the Nose, and other routes, Dihedral Wall, The Prow WC, and how rockfall on the Dihedral Wall nearly killed him, but broke his foot and took out their haul bag. The place erupted in laughter when after Glen explained they used to use one mail bag inside another for hauling, and someone said that they double bagged their equipment... lol After, I got to talk with him for a couple minutes and get my book signed... thanked him for everything he did. All in all, just a great man.

I have to add that the guys at Quest were super cool, and when they found out I drove down from Chicago, gave me a T-shirt. I was really happy I went there.

Scott

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 17, 2012 - 09:36pm PT

Glad to see that Glen is out promoting this film. Fred Padula and crew have gone to a lot of trouble to restore it frame by frame and it is still a classic!

Don't miss this one if it comes to town!

bhilden

Trad climber

Mountain View, CA

Feb 17, 2012 - 09:53pm PT

Glenn just had a birthday! Glad to see his work getting the appreciation it deserves!

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Feb 18, 2012 - 12:12pm PT

Denny Circa early 60s-dig the pack, prusik slings and Goldline. Old Skool to the max. Denny heading back to the rim, Arrow Notch. He always had quite the advantage at prusicking as he was ten ft tall!

A5scott

Trad climber

Chicago

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 01:47pm PT

Sorry I spelled his name wrong in the title...

but yeah the movie is great... I had a copy from the mid 90's and watched it 50 times or so. One of the greatest climbing films.

thanks Guido for posting!

scott