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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 13, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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All you twinkle toes 'Rad-Os:
What is the prime season for a lap on Naked Edge?
Bird closures?
Thunderstorms?
Heat?
What all do I need to consider? This is for a short-duration, fly in and out gig specifically to climb that route, not a byproduct of being in town already.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Early Fall- perfect weather, sans thunderstorms, and no bird closures. Fantastic route!
No special prep, route is 5 short pitches with a couple of approach pitches and goes quickly. You may want a day or two climbing in Eldo to get used to the rock and style of climbing.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Ok, so would last week Sept usually work? Or need to wait til mid Oct?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Last week in Sept. would be fine. People climb it from Aug. on after the bird closure is over but it is south facing and is better a little later. Also, the thunderstorm season is over by Sept.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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the thunderstorms are for real even though it's a short route. my friend eric doub and i went up to do that one august as i recall. blue bird day. t shirts. top of the finger crack a few clouds were blowing around, but no worries. top of the next pitch it's solid clouds and we're starting to rap. then the driving hail and wind starts. with one rope we need to leave some gear as i recall. it turns into a near hypothermic situation in a matter of a a few minutes. by the time we're down we're both shivering uncontrollably.....
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 13, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Come out in Aug and bag the Diamond, too. The Edge is good, but it isn't worth a plane ticket by itself. The Edge climbs fast, so you can usually finish in the AM before it gets too hot and/or starts raining. Look also at D7, Yellow Wall and/or Wunsch's to make the trip worth it. Do all 3 (Edge, Diamond, Wunsch) in a wknd for the ultimate CO trifecta. Totally doable at a casual pace if your partner knows the area, especially the approach to the Diamond.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
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If you have the time- another idea for a Colorado trad trifecta would be the Edge, the Diamond and the Black Canyon.
For a late Sept. trifecta substitute Wunch's Dihedral for the Diamond.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Yeah, it can be hot up until late September and that dark rock at the start of the 5th pitch(probably the crux of the route) can be very slippery. If you are in the area, you should also do the Diving Board. It gets much less traffic than the Edge, but is just as great a climb. You don't need any wide pro, in fact, you don't need much pro at all since there isn't much place to put it. A standard rack up to 3" will suffice.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
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Let's just head to the needles and do the Don Juan!
And leave the prancing to the prancers.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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That's for July Dave! We do need to go back and put in a better showing. And do Atlantis. And Spookbook.
Good call on the Wunsch's, that thing looks Five*.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
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The summer monsoon thunderstorms are absolutely for real (and one of the bigger drawbacks of Front Range weather) but a climber of his exalted status can easily do that climb well before they come in (generally mid/late afternoon in Boulder, earlier in the mountains) and also before it gets too hot.
The weather on any given day is obviously hugely variable, but anytime in Sep would typically be fine given a nice early start.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
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I found the sequence under the roof on Kloberdanz simply too perplexing. Maybe I didn't know how to Dance like Klobers.
The most popular start to the Edge is to do Touch n'Go.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:34pm PT
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Nobody does Kloeberdanz to the Edge. This route is a rarely climbed ancient relic with a one-move wonder crux. Most do the Ramp to the Cave. Touch and Go is a highly polished, overclimbed POS. T2 to the Edge is the "natural line" hardman start, but not that great either. The T2 roof to the 2nd pitch of Jules Verne is a much better option. Rosy is quite often used as a start, even though it's several climbs to the left. I would say Ramp is the #1 most popular option, Touch and Go #2 (mostly first timers who don't know any better), and I would give Rosy #3 as being more popular than #4 T2.
The Black - good call, but it's also 5 hrs away from the Front Range. Wunsch is roughly 1 hr from Eldo.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:40pm PT
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The Naked Edge is on my top ten list;......I was looking forward to doing the climb, and when I finally did the climb, it was actually better than I thought is was going to be;...it is just one of the best climbs in the country, ...plain and simple......it is that good;...and I believe worth the airfare alone, if that is the only thing you did on the whole trip;...of course,....the more the merrier indeed..
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A-Train
climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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The best link-up in Jules Verne to The Edge. Touch n' Go is boring and easy with some ledgy grass scrambling. JV to the Edge is all classic and adds a couple harder moves (wink, wink).
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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Make sure you come out on a weekday.
Weekends in Eldo the classics are usually a clusterf*#k of prancers.
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A-Train
climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
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Only the easy classics are a cluster. I would be surprised if you had to wait in line for any of the classic 11's and 12's (The Evictor being the one exception). Only one time in 10 years have I gotten on the Edge and had someone else on it. That one time the other climbers were uber strong and didn't slow us down at all.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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You mean my line on the Rincon gets traffic?
Heh.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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Trust me, if you value your space avoid the weekends, the place is a circus sideshow, NTTIAWWT.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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For maximum value, come in August and do The Edge (sunrise is my favorite time), Wunsch's Dihedral (pm for shade or early start - best crack climb in the state), The Diamond, Spearhead and Cheifshead depending on how much time you have... For the Edge, start with Superslab, Doub Griffith, Psychosis or Rosy. Easy logistics to bag the Diving Board right after doing the Edge by rapping from the upper edge of the East Slabs to the belay at the base of the good stuff on the Diving Board simply by building a quick rap anchor out of a few med/large nuts at an obvious thin crack on the shoulder...
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