Two alpinist die on FA attempt in Norway.

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laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
Sorry to be the person to break the bad news...

According to Dane Burns blog Cold Thistle

"Bjørn-Eivind Årtun (45) and Stein-Ivar Gravdal were found dead attempting a new route at Kjerag in Lysefjorden, Norway yesterday.

They went out on Tuesday expecting to get back Thursday, when they weren't a Sea King was called on Friday and found them hanging from a rope 100m above the scree slope. Local mountain rescue will start a recovery operation today."

A sad day for the alpine climbing world indeed

more can be found here...

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/

and in norwegian http://www.rogalandsavis.no/nyheter/politilogg/article5923660.ece

RIP to both men they will be missed.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 11, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
that is sad news .....
micronut

Trad climber
Feb 11, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
Oh man, is that the guy who climbed some hard Alaska stuff with Colin Haley? Sad. That was an inspiring article in Alpinist. My condolences to all involved and anybody who knew these guys.

ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 11, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
yeah, that's the guy. too bad.

(he was 45?? seemed younger)
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2012 - 11:57pm PT
Yeah he was the dude who did lots of stuff in alaska with Colin Haley including the famous route "Dracula" on Mt Foraker.

May he rest in peace.

I wonder what went wrong?
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Feb 12, 2012 - 03:31am PT
My condolences also. When people die and leave this planet they also leave many behind who loved them, whose lives were so intertwined the loss will hurt for a long time.

For all of you suffering from this loss my prayers and heartfelt thoughts go out to you. I know from personal experience healing will take time. Quite a bit of time. Take it only a day at a time, a step at a time, with peace, patience and perseverance.

lynne



Fletcher

Trad climber
Over there
Feb 12, 2012 - 03:40am PT
Lot of souls, at least on this little corner of the universe's radar, leaving us recently. RIP, live large and presently.

Eric
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 12, 2012 - 03:57am PT
hey there say, thanks so much for sharing this, so folks that know them can know about this, if they had not heard...


my condolences to their family and loved ones, at this very sad and hard time... :(

prayers for them all, as they move through this sadness, at the loss of their loved ones...

nita

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Feb 12, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
Sincere Condolences.. to Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal.. friends and family...)-;
Hoots

climber
Toyota Tacoma
Feb 12, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
RIP Bjorn Eivend. Had the pleasure of hanging out with both him and Ole recently; light hearted, passionate about the mountains, visionary, a real loss for the world climbing community.
RYan
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
From the British Mountaineering Council website

The Norwegian mountaineering community has lost two of its finest with the deaths of Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal.

The two were attempting a new ice route on the big wall of Kjerag, which rises more or less directly out of the Lysefjord in southwest Norway.

When they didn't return, a helicopter search was initiated, and on the morning of February 10 the two climbers were spotted hanging upside down on the face, motionless, and with considerable evidence of blood on the ice below.

It's surmised that they may have been hit by collapsing ice.

In February 2009 the pair had put up the amazing Strandhogg on this ca 900m face, Norway's premier big wall for both rock climbers and BASE jumpers.

This ephemeral ice route was the most coveted line at Kjerag and succumbed to very bold and sustained climbing at WI6+ M5+ and one short pendulum.

This ascent gained the pair one of the Norwegian Alpine Club's inaugural Alpine Awards, to "highlight and promote dedicated alpine climbing at a high level in Norway".

A couple of days later Aartun, this time with Annelin Henriksen added Pin-up (600m WI6) in the hanging valley left of the wall.

The likeable and unassuming 45-year-old Aartun, a photographer living in Oslo, started climbing in 1987, but for the next 20 years concentrated primarily on rock, making impressive new routes, repeats and first free ascents in Norway.

From 2007 he climbed in the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia on five occasions, repeating lines such as Los Tiempos Perdidos on Cerro Torre, and an astonishing fast ascent of the Ragni Route on the same peak.

He also put up two new routes; Hvit Linje (600m, WI5) below Poincenot, and the very recent Venas Azulas (AI6 M5) on Torre Egger.

In 2010 he made a single push first ascent of Dracula on Alaska's Mt Foraker with American Colin Haley, a climb that was nominated for a 2011 Piolet d'Or.

Gravdal was perhaps best known outside Norway for big wall climbing.

He made the first ascent of the North Face of Ulvatanna (2,950m) in Antarctica's Queen Maud Land, climbing the El Capitan-sized vertical granite face in 21 long pitches up to VI+ and A4.

He also made the second complete ascent of the legendary 1984 Norwegian Route on the northeast pillar of Great Trango Tower (East summit, 6,231m) in Pakistan, confirming the grade of this 1,500m route as VII 6b A4.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/tragic-accident-to-top-norwegian-alpinists
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 12, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
Laughingman

They were first-class climbers with world-class skills. Something completely unpredictable must have happened. The rescue-team taking them down from the mountain were sure the reason will be found. RIP Bjørn-Eivind og Stein-Ivar.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 12, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
Falling pillars /curtains don't care how good you are.. there but for the grace of god go I...
RIP...
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun was a good photographer too

http://www.aartun.no/

If they had kids or a widow and someone sets up a trust fund for them I am willing to donate...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 12, 2012 - 04:08pm PT
Very sad news. Condolences to their family and friends. Very sad.
Anonym Astmatiker

Ice climber
Trondheim, Norway
Feb 12, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
So sad. Inspiring climbers and great guys.

Info and good words about the two (in Norwegian) on Bore's blogg: http://borebloggen.blogspot.com/
bmacd

Mountain climber
100% Canadian
Feb 12, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
Many condolences to family and friends

Dracula Epic on Foraker is gripping reading
laughingman

Mountain climber
Seattle WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
bump
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 12, 2012 - 10:08pm PT

Aartun on the right

(not my photo; accessed from the AAC publicly-available website: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/features/feature-aaj-2011/dracula-by-bjorn-eivind-aartun/);
Anonym Astmatiker

Ice climber
Trondheim, Norway
Feb 13, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Both police and the Norwegian Climbing Association has made the same preliminary conclusion; that a large block/flake dislodged and caused the fatal accident.

http://nrk.no/nyheter/distrikt/rogaland/ryfylke/1.7994611

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