Places to mini-traxion in the valley in winter

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emu

climber

SF Bay area, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 2, 2011 - 01:17pm PT

I was thinking of getting out to the valley this weekend but I'm short exactly one climbing partner, so I guess I'll be bringing the mini traxion instead. Can anyone suggest routes that are pleasant to climb this time of year, with anchors I can access from the top or by rappelling to fix a line? I'm looking for stuff in the 5.10 range.

So far I've only come up with:
* Five and Dime
* Highway Star
* Mojo Tooth

Oh, and yeah, I'm gonna die.

WBraun

climber

Dec 2, 2011 - 01:23pm PT

Oh, and yeah, I'm gonna die.

No you're already dead, a walking corpse like all of us .....

elAndy

Trad climber

El Portal, CA

Dec 2, 2011 - 01:31pm PT

Five and Dime is always a winner.
Just run laps on five and dime but make sure to set the rope so that you're not constantly fishing it out of the crack.

enjoi.

Dapper Dan

Trad climber

Menlo Park

Dec 2, 2011 - 02:50pm PT

I used to climb up Aunt Fanny's Pantry at Church Bowl . From the top there you walk left and you can access 'Revival' , 'Pole Position' and the superb 'Church Bowl Lieback' ...

Out of curiosity , how do you rig your mini traxion soloing system ? What is your backup ? I used to fix a rope at the half way point so there were two equal halves hanging down , I would use a basic ascender on one side and rig it to slide up hands free, and on the other half of the rope I would back up with a gri - gri .

It worked well for me . The drawbacks were periodically pulling the rope through the gri gri side , and I could only do routes that were half a rope length long .

Be safe with that stuff...