my New Year's resolution is to downclimb more routes

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Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
from my understanding of climbing history, it was once fashionable to downclimb the route rather than take the "walk-off". I know some will object, but climbers of the 1930s and 1940s were cooler than you or me. So I'm going to emulate the cool kids in 2012 by downclimbing fare I up-climb.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 11, 2011 - 05:43pm PT
I don't know about the fashion of downclimbing, but I'm pretty good at backing off!

John
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Nov 11, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Not every climb has a walkoff. When I was at the pinnacles last week I'd contemplated 3rd classing some of the easier pinnacles. Trouble is I haven't been doing much downclimbing and didn't want to get myself in a not sure how to reverse the move situation 30' off the ground. Nor did I want to find myself on the tippy top of a little pinnacle w/o a rope.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 11, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
John has a good point. "Downclimbing" has a nice ring to it, unlike say "ignominous retreat", "sufferfest", or "defeat". Sort of like advancing in a rearward direction - the military usually has good euphemisms.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Social climber
Retired to Appalachia
Nov 12, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
I always used to down climb instead of rap off when I was a young, poor climber back in the 1970s. We couldn't afford to leave gear behind.

Besides, I didn't trust my 1/4-inch yellow polypropylene climbing rope to support my weight on rappel.

When I did a lot of free-soloing, I also down-climbed the routes instead of rapping.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Nov 12, 2011 - 10:28pm PT
sounds like a great idea! Maybe you should try it in california. Some great places to start would be the East Wall at Lover's Leap, Manure Pile Buttress, or Five Open Books. You will meet lots of folks and make friends with many!
Tim Camuti

Trad climber
CA
Nov 12, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
^^^^^^HAHAHA! That is such a funny idea!! You're brilliant Tornado!

Regardless of how you get down, just remember that the descent is, statistically speaking, the most dangerous part of the climb. Downclimbing on TR or half pitch stuff is all right- but reversing a lead SAFELY will really challenge you at the end of the day. Stay safe out there!
Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic
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