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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 13, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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I know it hasn't seen a 2nd ascent...
Anyone know if it has been attempted?
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 13, 2011 - 06:09pm PT
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It has been repeated... by some 19year olds. BUT... they climbed part from the bottom. Then went to top and rapped in and finished... oh course this could be made up. This is from memory... like 10 years ago when I read this. Would have been repeated in like 97 or something.
Valerio Folco also did some of it. I remember it from his website. I swear I heard it has a million bathooks and richard drilled klaus's penji up high... HAHAHAHAHHAAHA... who f*#king knows.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 13, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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I also heard it took Richard being a sinner and consuming 20 pounds of bacon to get her done and give him the raw power to hook up the great slab.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
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Thanks for the links guys.
J, I heard the same about the A2+ penji up high.
So, it looks like it's at least seen a real 2nd ascent by Valerio, just translated his beta but still kinda hard to read.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2011 - 07:01pm PT
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Hhmmm, interesting... I wonder why he bailed.
Here's what I got from the translation:
Pitch 1: To go back in free “Captain Hook”. 5.7 on the left and 5.9 to right; however or not at all banal all and two.
Pitch 2: A5 but second me A4R. Shooting technical on slightly supported plate where they are put alone hooks and heads. A lot probably “if you fall you die” but the passages are not extremely technical. Many drilled hooks.
Pitch 3: According to me A3R.Un shooting that me is piaciuto a lot perche' chases a series of solid scagliettine much not to couple with the hooks. Artif impegnativo and potentially dangerous fall.
Pitch 4: If it were not for Zicral rivetti that is much dangerous this shooting would be a shooting of A2+ to the maximum perche' from the technical point of view is enough simple. A good free passage and job copperheading in order arriving in pause and the game is made. They give under to the roof not to go to right in order to take the two rivetti up but to go up instead on the left and from a hook spalmare the feet in adhesion in order to take pauses; interesting passage above all if made in solitary.
Pitch 5: A5 but second me not piu' of A3. The hooks in order to go to take the groove vertical they are not thus banal and they are inframmezzati from passages in free. Then heads and aliens till it pauses.
Pitch 6-7-8: Artif classic on drilled hooks, heads and aliens.
Pitch 9: Shooting interesting on subdole sections and expanding. The second pilastrino completely unglued from the wall is opened sped up from the expansion of cams of the friends. Artif where it otherwise must have experience us makes badly of the large one even if the degree is alone A2. The passage in free before pauses I have resolved thus; from the last protection (a coppehead) I have worn the scarpette and I have given 10 meters abundant of motivatings force to the Gri-Gri dopodiche' have left in adhesion on for this rampa of merda all svasata launch to the hole of the platelet of the bolt of it pauses. Voila'.
Pitch 10: Beautiful shooting classic on friends and Aliens with some heads in means. Last shooting from salted me before the arrival of mega the perturbation that it has to me forced to the reduction.
Pitch 11-19: I do not have climbs therefore I maintain them the difficolta' originates marked them on Big Walls di Don Reid
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gimmeslack
Trad climber
VA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
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..."the perturbation that it has to me forced to the reduction"
:-o
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Aug 13, 2011 - 07:28pm PT
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For some reason I thought he had shitty weather... I could be totally wrong.
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Caz
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA.
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Aug 13, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
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Shitty weather, like poop falling from the sky?
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 13, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
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Hmm, Pirate, an internet translation? Very amusing, but although I am not much of an Italian speaker, some bits that may help you figure it out: tiro is "pitch." And that charming phrase noted above is, storms forced him to bail. Some other funny and informative bits in there too, I'll pass along to someone who can provide you with a decent translation (if one doesn't appear sooner on this thread).
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 15, 2018 - 12:37pm PT
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Erik Eriksson, Neil Chelton and I completed this route a couple weeks ago.
From the stilted google translation above, it sounds about right. I'm going to ask my co-author Fabio Elli to retranslate this for us into more proper English.
Gripped Magazine editor Brandon Pullan also wrote,
"In 1995 and 1996, Grega Lajen and Iztok Mihev climbed the first half [of Winds of Change] and descended. They then rappelled in from the top and climbed the second half."
The above came from here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199615301/North-America-United-States-California-Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan-Winds-of-Change-Second-Ascent
Fun route, but spooky - the entire Pinnacle of Hammerdom is EXTREMELY expando! We were showered with sand for two minutes one morning while we were beneath it. Erik and Neil led the left side of it in the afternoon, and I cleaned it around 5pm. The two-hundred-foot-plus-high left side of the Pinnacle was a fist crack at 2pm, but after the sun passed and the rock cooled, it contracted to a hand crack, crushing two of our big Camalots irretrievably.
We weren't about to go back down there the next day to try to get them out, that's for damn sure! I predict that whole bugger is going to come off sometime soon.
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Valerio
climber
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Oct 15, 2018 - 02:05pm PT
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Pitch 1: climb Captain Hook… 5.7 in the left or 5.9 to the right
Pitch 2: A5 probably A4 or A4/R. Slab pitch with a lot of hooks…some natural and many drilled. Potential landing on the “Captain hook”.
Pitch 3: nice pitch…the best one. A lot of small flakes to hook in a long traverse to the left. Demanding hook moves and bad fall. Probably A3 or A3R.
Pitch 4: many bad Zicral rivets. This pitch needs a good job on copperheads. I did an interesting free move to reach the belay directly to the left just above the small roof without using the two rivet that you see high on the right. Probably A2+.
Pitch 5: was not a very hard pitch… probably A3. Hooks and free moves. After that aliens and heads to the belay.
Pitch 6-7-8: Classic aid climbing on drilled hooks heads and aliens.
Pitch 9: interesting pitch to climb in solo. Serious aid climbing with some expanding sections. The last free moves to reach the belay was very demanding and scary for me.
Pitch 10: Classic aid climbing on friends and heads.
I bailed from the 10th belay due to a two days thunderstorm with 2 feet of snow at the top of El Cap. I remember also many helicopter rescues on the wall.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 15, 2018 - 09:09pm PT
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Thanks, Valerio.
Yes, I did a good job on the heads. [I always do] ;)
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:24pm PT
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Are those "Zicral" rivets aluminum? Or "Zamac" steel-nail-in-lead-sleeve rivets?
There were quite a few Zamacs on Wings of Steel, also established by Richard Jensen.
Zicral is a trademark for a brand of 7075 aluminum alloy.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7075_aluminium_alloy
Just for the record, aluminum aircraft rivets are typically delivered in a T0 condition meaning they are dead soft, and easy to form. They need to be artificially aged to develop their full strength, which for 7075 would mean heating up to about 250 degrees F for at least a few hours.
In other words, Zicral rivets would not seem to be especially suitable for aid ladders, unless you are on LSD and have a big magnifying glass up there.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Oct 15, 2018 - 10:27pm PT
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Zamac rivets.
Edit: Stainless steel nail in zinc.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2018 - 02:16pm PT
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Deleted as per Valerio request.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Oct 16, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
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Yes it's true. When Dick Jensen joined my already established route he drilled all over it including eliminating the pendulum near the top by bolting his way past it. His quote "I don't like doing pendulums"
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 16, 2018 - 03:04pm PT
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"...he drilled all over it..."
I did not observe this.
Can you please draw a copy of the topo, and post the sketch here? Please show "before" and "after".
Thanks.
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klaus
Ice climber
6th and Mission
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Oct 16, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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Your powers of observation are weak. Have you ever compared topos? Did you do a pendulum near the top? Maybe read a book sometime.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Oct 16, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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LOL hey pete your stalker has arrived ..so predictable.
As usual semihasbeen everthingidoisadeathroutA5+++++ dipshit klaus is an ass and nobody is ever half as good as he is.
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