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Jamie Kamlet
Social climber
Mountainville, NY
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 18, 2009 - 12:39am PT
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I am trying to find out what issue of The Eastern Trade (a newsletter put out by John Stannard in the early 70's) featured a short article by Hans Kraus about his first ascent of High Exposure. If anyone collects old issues of the Eastern Trade or knows someone who has access to them, I'd appreiate help finding the date of that issue.
Thanks
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Jamie Kamlet
Social climber
Mountainville, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 11:45am PT
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thanks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 18, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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Our own jstan authored the newsletter and should be able to help you! But you probably know that already from your research.
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richross
Trad climber
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Nov 18, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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Ian Jacobus on High Exposure in October.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Nov 18, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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I have a number of the Eastern Trades at home. I'll try to root through my papers this evening and see if I can find what you are looking for. Though, hopefully, John or Rich or someone will answer sooner.
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jstan
climber
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Nov 18, 2009 - 01:05pm PT
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Hard to believe there are still ET's out there.
Oh by the way. Steve Williams just sent me his copy of the Seneca Guide. I had not kept one for myself. They held up really well over the past thirty years!
The date on the newsletter you seek is Aug 72. V1 #3. They were so time consuming to put out I kept a copy of each. If you need a more precise date I have the financial records in JT and they should indicate the first deliveries of that issue to stores.
By the way I was giving them away for free but the stores were very supportive. They gave me twenty five cents a copy whether I wanted it or not.
The hardest part was getting contributed articles. You can imagine how little free time Hans Kraus had but he still gave me that recollection of the FA of High Exposure. It was so well done he pretty clearly had spent some time on it. Steve Wunsch also gave the ET a great little piece and Guy Waterman contributed two. Fritz gave me an 8x10 photo of Horseman taken during the War. Unbelievable. If I can find it I'll put it up on ST. It may be out in JT.
This internet is such a great thing.
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Jamie Kamlet
Social climber
Mountainville, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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jstan, thank you so much!
By the way, I read most of your Eastern Trades religiously back in the early 70s and practiced chock placements, based on your advice. The reason I needed this fact is because in the fall of 1975 I was lowered from the top of High Exposure to take some pictures of friends. Suddenly a climber named Bernie (I still remember his name) came climbing through. He informed me that Hans Kraus was seconding. It was Dr. Kraus's 70th birthday climb. I asked him if I could take his picture on the rocks, he said yes and then asked me to mail them to him. I did and wrote an article recently about it (called 'Happy Birthday, Hans Kraus') It's appearing in Climbing Magazine, in the issue after this upcoming issue.) I referred specifically to that story by Dr. Kraus in your newsletter, and the editor wanted the exact date.
So thanks again! You saved me a trip to the Daniel Smiley Research center.
Jamie Kamlet
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Rajko
Trad climber
Cambridge, MA
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Hi, this may be redundant, but just in case, all copies of the The Eastern Trade have been uploaded to Scribd by Rock and Snow, see below link:
https://www.scribd.com/andrewzalewski
You need to pay for a scribd account to download, but if you just do a one day thing you can download them all for like 8 bucks.
Thanks John for making these at the time and preserving them! Very fun and interesting reads!
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