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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 17, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
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I strongly suggest you're sitting down with a beer in your hand when you look at some of the pictures...Quite curious on your take.
I read through the shitshow in the thread already. Want to read about the guy and the climbing he has done to find out more about a fellow forum member. Personally, I think opinion of some guy that lives in CA, has been climbing for less than four years and is not planning to visit that crag, DOES NOT MATTER. What matters is what the local climbers that frequent the crag think. If majority thought the routes are over-bolted or don’t belong, they probably would be chopped?
I believe climbers are sort of like artists. There are different ways to express self and different ways to put up a route. Same climber can put up a badass route on rappel or ground up. I think it all depends on community, climbers, situations, access to gear etc.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jun 17, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
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Who decides whether an area will become sport or trad? Is this answer the answer of the puzzlement?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jun 17, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
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jammer,
that is Split Rock, with all the marbling you describe. There are 2 big ass rocks there. Reese the other is somewhat monolithic looking and is NE of the 4wd road.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Kev, you're right, the Edl thing is a given. You can check out his other contributions to the taco if you're bored, especially note the whole anti-Semite, thing, against himself, that he himself chose to share with us.
As for the Article. I didn't say that it misrepresented the area or Dingus. Like Mike said, It's a pretty good picture. The exception would be if you look at the photos and deduce from that that it's a place of bolted cracks. That seems to be what all of this is all about. It's Not a place of bolted cracks! There are almost no cracks there. It makes Owens valley gorge look like Indian Creek, by comparison.
I did a fist jam in Bat out of hell@ cave rock. It's no more a crack climbing place than Reese.
So Kev, to answer your question I don't there is the problem you mentioned.
Also, kev, as another van owner, you should check out his rig; Solar panels, water circulation with gauges whose purpose is unclear to me. He has a chamber in the back insulated to the point that he and his dog have slept in it with no added hearing at well below zero, or some crazy sh#t.... I have a series of photos of it on the first vedauwoo Sushifest thread/ trip report.
Vitally, Dingus / Dennis is one of the most fascinating people I've ever met. Ask him about his graduate degrees, his exploits in single man skulling boats, trips down the continental divide, his flying airplanes, His mining claim, the land he bought and the house he built on it without the benefit of a mortgage. Or ask about his years in a tipi.
A full story there, and then we get to his climbing; he has put up more routes in various styles, in more areas, that he discovered or developed a majority of the routes himself, than anyone I know.
I'm sorry this thread got sidetracked by things people read into it, and missed the whole point of the story.
Edit: I guess you showed us how "familiar" with the area you are, Justin. It's okay that you haven't been there. And btw, I love it when you and Pat play the age card with me, it shows that you have no material whatsoever.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jun 17, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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If majority thought the routes are over-bolted or don’t belong, they probably would be chopped?
That is often not the case.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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But usually it is. (Regarding Kev's post)
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jun 17, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jun 17, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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Sport climbers far outnumber trad climbers? Would not it be in Climbing Mag's better interest to have a story about an historic figure that was in early on what was to become Sport Climbing? They do know which hands feed the mouth. Hence, articles on both styles. all is good :).
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 04:45pm PT
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What on earth are you gurgling about, now?
Edit: adroit use of the strawman there cowboy joe (below)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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Is this what people want for the future of climbing? Isn't this what happened in Europe? I'm sure Dingus McGee is a nice guy, but this is the poorest style of climbing and should not be promoted in a national magazine.
Kev, you're a good guy, but you've never been to Reese.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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I like what Mike Friedrichs had to say.
I'm pretty sure I can trust he and John Anderson when it comes to cracks.
Ablegabel said some good stuff too, defenders of a staunch traditional ethic are cool with me.
The sky is not falling.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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I'm going to head out to Reese Mountain this summer I think. Which army surplus store has the bolt guns? the ones that fire them with hanger and quickdraw already loaded. I'd like to fire in a few dozen lines than piss on a crucifix.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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St Vincent de Rambo! Get a Tyvek suit while you're there if poison ivy triggers a histamine reaction in you.
Indeed, the sky is not falling, or my name ain't honest john :)
Justin... ...any stalker of mine gotta do better than that! It's not like I haven't mentioned it a million times here. Just use your math degree and put two and two together...
Okay, I make sandwhich's at Jimi johns in Laramie and am known to be abusive to customers.... Or was that someone else?..... And not just when he was in college....
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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?
This guy?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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You're a very odd, little man.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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So I just had this weird deja vu experiences and was wondering if ... well, anyways, here's the question for Jaybro (or Dingus) or especially Mike Friedrichs: do you (or did you) know a guy (from Laramie) named Joe Cupps, because he was my roommate for a bit in SLC when I was working on my doctorate and Joe had a friend (I think) from Laramie named Mike who was a climber and liked to climb in the Swell and broke his back in American Fork climbing with a girl who was once a student of mine and I don't think I actually ever climbed with Mike but we hung out a time or two and kicked the hacky sack some and I just now thought that maybe it was a small world and just maybe ... ????
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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Bingo! You've hit the right Mike! He's healed up well and has led five thirteen, run at least one marathon since breaking his back. - he would be too modest to tell you that. Mike and Joe and I were all at the university of Wyoming together last century. Mike and joe went to high school together.
Joe lives 'down the street' as it were, from Dingus, in Laramie. They know each other well.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
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All right, that's so cool!!! It's like the old days again, when there was only a couple of degrees of separation between climbers (it's still that way in Argentina). Joe and I had a lot of fun climbing together for a year or so until he went back to Laramie.
Cheers
Tim
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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Tim, there are photos of Mike & Joe & Dingus in the Vedauwoo Sushifest threads and trip reports.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:13pm PT
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OK, I'll be checking that out tomorrow. It's after midnight here, my wife's waiting for me in bed and I have to get up at 6:30 for work.
Buenas noches
Tim
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