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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2011 - 02:46am PT
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The very strong Czech climber Zorka Prachtel lost her battle with cancer last month.
During the late sixties and early seventies she may well have been one of the best female free climbers in the world. She regularly climbed what would be called hard 5.11 in both the then Czechoslovakia and the then German Democratic Republic. These are of course the well known sandstone areas that metal protection is prohibited. She was really that good. I've seen the home movies. I also saw her climbing hard 5.10 in her late fifties. She was amazing.
Because of trouble with local Communist party members, she and her husband Petr, where banished into obscurity. They continued to climb but mostly on the granite domes of the Jersky Mountains. Mostly forgotten with the exception of their friends, it seemed they would be left in obscurity forever.
That changed when the production of the film "Jump!" put them front and center in 2002. The film did well in festivals around the world and Zorka and Petr finally got their due from not only young Czech climbers but also from respected climbers worldwide.
Tomorrow night is her memorial service in her hometown of Liberec. I have attached a Czech obituary. But fear not, a shorter English language version will be in the Spring issue of "Alpinist."
She was a dear friend too me and too many else and will be missed by all.
http://www.horyinfo.cz/view.php?cisloclanku=2011020021&nazevclanku=zorka-prachtelova
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grover
climber
Dabville. Gnarlandia
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Wow what a legacy.
BITD boldness for sure.
Rest in peace Zorka.
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Jaytee
Trad climber
U.K.
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Some lovely photos there. Hard 5.11 in carpet slippers! Thanks for the link - will be really interested to read the translation when it's available.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Damn cancer. Your pain is over Zorka, we too will be joining you all too soon. Copied from the link.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Allen, sorry for the loss of your friend. She definitely looks like she was one of those that was pushing limits unknown in her time and doing it without spray or recognition. (not to mention she was a beautiful woman also).
I know that you are in awe of those Eastern European climbers, some of the stories you've told about their climbing here in the states are eye opening.
Condolences,
Scott
Edit: Love that picture with Bird, looks like he'd met his match.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Allen,
My condolences to you and Zorka's family. Although I am 1/4 Bohemian I never
made it to the old sod, sadly. Oddly, I climbed a lot with Russians in
the 70's and I think I can safely say that all those people behind the Curtain
climbed with a purety of passion untainted by notoriety or undue ambition.
Peace
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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I had the privilege to meet unforgettable Czech climbers at Smith Rock in the late Eighties. They entertained my family by playing and singing American Folk and Bluegrass in our living room. Sympathy to you, Allen, and all surviving, admiring, friends of Zorka.
-Bruce Adams
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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sorry to hear about zorka-- condolences to family and friends.
thanks for posting that link, allen.
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habitat
climber
grass pass
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Very sporty girl
Of course being Czech is an unfair advantage in the beauty dept., so no additional points there!
RIP
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
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Thanks all for the nice words. She was amazing.
I know certain voices in this forum might be a little upset by this, but she was climbing as hard if not harder than most of the top male climbers in the States at the time. Plus she was putting up first ascents in Elbsandstein that blew the German's away. That's saying a lot. The East German climbing Communist sport ministers where so impressed she was actually given one of the ridiculous Commie climbing awards; the "Golden Kluttershoe."
Her memorial service today was great. Or so I'm told. They showed the rarely seen film "Jump!" of which she was the star and more importantly all who attended had a great time celebrating her life.
Thanks again for your kind words.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
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Scott, that was a wild year at Trento. Lots of big personalities. Lots of drinking. Jim was a total gentleman and really happy to meet Z and P. It was a fun week. We even managed to get some climbing in at Arco.
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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A noble life.
Thanks for reminding us how lucky we are.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Really a top notch tribute Allen.
With excellent photos to boot. I know a lot of climbing history, but she escaped me somehow.
Thanks for including Zorka in the other thread.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, allen and all of the friends of zorka prachtel...
thank you, first for sharing about your wonderful friend...
i would never have known of her, if not for this...
second:
my condolences to you, and her family, and her loved ones...
thank your sharing these wonderful pictures and some history
on her....
she sounded like she had so much to share...
thanks to the film, as you said... folks will continually
remember her and her climbs...
god bless
edit:
pics are showing up now:
wow! what WONDERFUL photos :)
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