El Cap Free Climbs By Difficulty

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - May 4, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
inspired by this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=850638

and some recent time on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell, i thought i would post Tommy's assessment on how the El Cap free climbs stack up from hardest to easiest:


Magic Mushroom 5.14a
Dihedral Wall 5.14a
The Nose 5.14a
Lurking Fear 5.13c ("hardest slab climbing on el cap")
Zodiac 5.13d
Muir Wall 5.13c
Salathe 5.13c
West Buttress 5.13c
Corazon 5.13b
Golden Gate 5.13a
Free Rider 5.12d

Those are all the routes he has climbed. He has not climbed El Nino (he might be waiting to try for the onsight) but he guesses El Nino is probably between Corazon and Golden Gate in difficulty.

He also has not climbed the two newer free routes on the far right side near Eagles Way and the East Buttress.. so he cant put those in the list either.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
here is a thread with a list of el cap routes by difficulty
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=850638
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 4, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Didn't Clint post a photograph with the lines drawn at some point?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 4, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
Is this the right place for a discussion of what "free" means? By some definitions, only the West Face and East Buttress have been done free so far. That is, on sight, no rehearsal or falls or rests or preparation.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
May 4, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Then there's the Houlding route Passage to Freedom, which he called 13d, with one move of aid. Don't think that one has been repeated?
B-Dog

Trad climber
LOUISIANA
May 4, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
Another Houlding route called The Prophet (13b) and the the variation of the Muir (Free Muir .13c/d)
cultureshock

Trad climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
May 4, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Lost in Translation (V 5.12b/c) was free climbed ground up by Ivo Ninov of Bulgaria, and Nico Favresse of Belgium.

I don't know if they did it onsight though....

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/lostintranslation/
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?keyid=35273&l=2

shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
May 11, 2009 - 02:58am PT
of the three el cap routes i have done free, i would rank as this from easist to hardest
freerider
golden gate
el nino

although, freerider isn't really a MAJOR free climb on el cap since there's no 13 on it, unless, of course, you do it in a day(which i haven't)
el nino isn't really a free route cause there's a 30' rapell on it,still, i imagine el nino is harder than el corazon since the first ascensionist(alex) rated el nino harder

shipoopoi
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2011 - 11:11am PT
Tommy just updated the list, taking a guess at difficulty of routes he has not done

-Magic Mushroom
-Dihedral Wall
-The Nose
-Lurking Fear
-Half Dome, Direct Northwest Face
-The Prophet
-Zodiac
-Muir Wall
Secret Passage
-Washignton Column, South Face
El Nino
-Salathe
-West Buttress
-Corazon
Leaning Tower, Wet Lycra Nightmare
-Mt. Watkins, South Face
-Golden Gate
-Free Rider
Quantum Mechanic
-Leaning Tower, West Face
Gold Wall/Silent Line
-Half Dome, Regular Northwest Face
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 12, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
You'd think Tommy would go bang out triple direct to add another route to the list and massage the sponsors. I guess he's done every inch of it free while freeing other routes but nobody's ever climbed it free.

Peace

Karl
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Mar 12, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
Amazing that the Nose is in the Top 3.
Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic
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