Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 4, 2008 - 01:33am PT
|
EDIT #1: Oops. I guess North Country is so obscure that we weren't even on it. Instead, the description below is for the first three pitches of Absolutely Billy followed by (I think) North Diagonal to the top.
(Obscurity adventure #1 was here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=441077)[/i]
I can't remember the first time I heard that North Country at Lover's Leap has a nice crack section on the 3rd pitch, but last week I finally got to explore it.
Actually, it wasn't the first attempt. A couple years ago spyork and I went up to climb the route - we pored through 3 different guides, scoped out the route with binoculars from the Pony Express Trail, and hiked up to the base - but on seeing the loose, damp, mossy and chossy first pitch decided to climb something cleaner (and safer) instead. But I never forgot those rumors about the 3rd pitch.
Then, a couple weeks ago I was halfway up Fandango when I happened to have a brief conversation across the cliff with some guy - an ex-bartender, forget his name but I think it starts with a "P" - who suggested an alternate start to North Country via a new route called Absolutely Billy. That was all I needed to hear.
I found a partner in adventure with my friend Patrick and last week we made a go at North Country via Absolutely Billy. Here's the route:
That ex-bartender's advice (yes it was Petch) was right on! Instead of NC's loose blocky pitch, the first pitch of Absolutely Billy wanders up steep, dikey face on 6 bolts and a few pieces of gear. (I was only seconding, but rating-wise it seemed harder than Arctic Breeze but easier than Labor of Love.) Here's Patrick leading the first pitch:
From the bolted anchor, the 2nd pitch of North Country appeared to go up left (we hoped). I forgot to take pictures before starting but here's a view from above a blocky overhang/roof that required scary creative moves I no longer recall but took a long time to accept.
Talking later, we both agreed that this 2nd pitch section was probably the most interesting part of the route even though it's sort of dirty. Next time I'm bringing a brush! Other gardening tools might come in handy too.
After the overhang the line stays steep but if you don't mind spitting out dirt and lichen every few moves it's pretty fun. Also, if you're carrying a pack maybe bring some eyewash (or wear goggles).
Anyway, before long I found myself at the next belay watching Patrick shoosh the pitch. Here he is at the blocky overhang near the start:
And further along:
Here's a panoramic of the setting. Travellor Buttress and Corrugation Corner are visible in the upper left.
OK, we were finally at the much-anticipated 3rd pitch. On first view I was a little disappointed. I mean, yes, it was a finger crack but it was full of moss!
Oh well (I said to myself) what do you expect for a rarely-climbed obscurity? But...once into the pitch the climbing turned out very enjoyable. Satisfying finger locks combined with technical back-and-forth balancy moves along small dikes. It was great!!! My anticipation grew as it dawned that the 3rd pitch rumors might be true, after all.
And then, what to my wondering eyes did appear? But a clean thin-hands crack and good placements for gear!
This was probably the cleanest and nicest section of the entire route. Kind of like a mini-Hospital Corner.
Here's Patrick coming the corner section:
Patrick led the last pitch. The old topo says '4th class' but nowadays it might be considered more like 4.10d (IMHO).
There was a tricky step into a corner from the belay and a few steep moves before Patrick disappeared. He was out of view but moving at a good pace before eventually appearing again near the top (beta note: we had a 70 m rope). Then he disappeared again and I expected a quick "off belay!" but instead time stood still. Hmmm...he must be working out some moves at the top. (I found out soon enough that the last part involved a sketchy undercling traverse along a chossy roof. Nice lead!)
Meanwhile I enjoyed the view. Gosh, it sure is exposed up here...
Sure am glad I'm not stuck in that traffic!
Eventually I heard the "on belay!" and headed up the last pitch.
We topped out on a spectacular summer afternoon.
It's always a blast to discover another fun route-less-traveled in the midst of a popular climbing area like Lover's Leap. Hmmm, I wonder what ELSE is waiting up there...?
EDIT #2: The photo above might be better captioned: "Which way is North Country?"
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Nice Trad!
I have long gazed at that p3 crack from Main Ledge, looks pretty cool! I've done the Absolutely Billy before and it's a terrific pitch.
If you're looking for another seldom climbed main wall route, Zander did a nice TR of his climb of Wallflower .10a on this site last fall, Looks cool!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
I'm not too sure you guys were on route. By the line in your photo, you were too far to the right and missed the .10 3rd pitch completely. Can't really tell from the photos.
The Leap has more "Sleeper" routes than almost anywhere. Many many classic routes that didn't make the Supertopo hence, don't see much traffic. Shame.
Good on ya guys for seeking out a good adventure.
|
|
slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
"The Leap has more "Sleeper" routes than almost anywhere. Many many classic routes that didn't make the Supertopo hence, don't see much traffic. Shame. "
I feel exactly the opposite.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
hmm, I think Salamanizer is right. Looking at your first route photo, the splitter crack I'm thinking of is about 1 inch left of your first green 'B'?
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 02:17am PT
|
I'm not too sure you guys were on route.
That will be hilarious if it turns out we climbed the wrong line. I accept full responsibility. But on the other hand, maybe we got a first ascent!!!!!
Fortunately I can delete this topic if it gets too embarrassing.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
I think this is where North Country goes. At least as far as I've always understood it. Should be a bolted anchor on top of that third pitch, at least really close by where you could use it.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
heh! I just flipped through 4 Leap guides, Carville, Sutton, Jenkewitz-meytras and Sumner.
So far as I can tell, your second pitch isn't mentioned anywhere? Despite the fact that it looks like an obvious crack? Bombs Away is the face to the right, and North Country looks to be left?
However, the Sumner guide (only) shows a route called North Diagonal, that traverses in from the left, and looks like it shares your last two pitches. This is the route description from Sumner:
North Diagonal, 5.9, FA Ken Edsburg and friend. From the top of the first pitch of North Face, traverse right approximately 50 feet, then climb a long right diagonalling crack system (5.8, poor protection, dangerously loose). After 200 feet, cut back left and climb books and ramps to the rim.
I'll try to scan and post it.
|
|
Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
|
|
Good job trad, but you still didn't do n co. That was the second and third pitch of a.b. into the north diaganol. Salaminzer has it right for n.co
Good adevnture!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
"The Leap has more "Sleeper" routes than almost anywhere. Many many classic routes that didn't make the Supertopo hence, don't see much traffic. Shame. "
I feel exactly the opposite.
Are you kidding,
Reds Delight
Fandango
Lovers Chimney
Eeyores Enigma
Freak Show
Cross Town Traffic
North Face
Dragon Back
Under the Big Top
Anesthesia
April Fools
Craven Image
Vanishing Point
Third Stone
These routes should be on everyones list.
Theres more, but I don't care to think of them right now.
Hey Petch, you should continue A.B. up the face to the right of their second/third pitch. That section begs to be climbed, or is that part of bombs away?
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Route 40 is North Country.
Route 41 is North Diagonal.
Sorry for the crappy scan. I think you can click on it to enlarge?
|
|
Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
|
|
A.B. does top out. After the third pitch that Trad did, move belay 15ft to the rt. Take the diaganol crack/seam into main crack system(5.9/10a. pg/r) head straight up (10d) to small pine tree, make face moves up and right into loose underclings to an anchor. Then finishing on last pitch of Al Tahoe.
P1 10a 100ft
P2 10c 110ft
P3 8+ 100ft
p4 10d 110ft(the heavy heart pitch)
p5 8 140ft
Linking the second and third is a great pitch
double set to 2" 1-3"cam and 1-4" cam, helmets, goggles optional
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 04:20am PT
|
So North Country is STILL up there waiting for me to climb it?
And not only that, I led the .10c 2nd pitch of Absolutely Billy thinking it was 5.9? (And it WAS a pretty cool sequence.)
Well other than the fact that I've publicly embarrassed myself for all eternity on the internet with a viewership of billions, I guess it's not that bad.
I do feel a bad about getting the title wrong, though. If folks think it appropriate just post up and I'll delete the whole thing.
From now on maybe I should only climb obvious lines like The Line.
Not!
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Don't nuke it Trad! You guys had a cool adventure on a seldom climbed part of the Leap! You did part of a climb that isn't in the 4 most recent guidebooks, sweet! Way to unearth a true obscurity!
Absolutely North Diagonal!
|
|
L
climber
Flat-faced Buddha Cat City
|
|
Good TR, Trad. And no, you are not the first to climb something you thought was something else, so please don't nuke this thing.
In fact, your post makes me feel really good about a couple of routes I onsighted that I thought were supposed to be 5.9s and ended up be hard 10s. I was kicking myself for sucking so badly...till I found out the real ratings. Sometimes being off-route isn't necessarily a bad thing.
|
|
Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
|
|
sometimes being off route (in life or whatever) can take you where you need to go. i think it's really funny that you did that, and you should be proud. you did something new and creative! kudos
don't take away the post pleeeeease :)
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
|
It's too bad we can't edit topic titles, 'cause then the easiest fix would be to insert one word and change it to "Absolutely NOT North Country!!"
|
|
Standing Strong
Trad climber
sunlight on the surf
|
|
hehe. good bad luck. you got a lot of information from it!
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Question for Petch if he's still reading this...
Just left of the first pitch of North Face, and right of Up From the Skies is a face with big dikes. I was climbing North Face, and 3/4 of the way up to the ledge just left on the face, was a single open shut.
is this a route? Or some old single point toprope?
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Trad, keep your hands in plain sight, raise them off the keyboard and step away from the keyboard. Do not nuke! Repeat! Do not nuke!
Nice TR.
Once you see it you cannot miss the third pitch crack from main ledge ever again. It's looks lovely and it is not a corner it runs through a slab. Not that I've climbed it. I got scared off after 30 feet.
Maybe later this year.
Zander
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!