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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 05:22pm PT
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Ok sure. I don't understand hard soloing. But I do find cutting edge solos fascinating. But isn't it interesting that anyone who questions the RW solo has their soloing questioned? You asking me, others telling people to solo behind MR for a day. Unrelated. Your posts in this thread are about me, not MR or his soloing.
So I'll say it, sure. No, I don't think that MR onsight free soloed RW. This is an opinion, and it really isn't that strongly held. I think there is a possibility that he did it.
I didn't think it was 'perry mason bullshit' to ask a few questions about it, and I sure didn't create the controversy. If he didn't do it, it would not be the first lie in climbing...
Oh yeah, I'm not really trying to convince anyone of anything. Just maybe trying to discuss climbing on a climbing related website?
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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to ya'll that are saying he might/must have solo'd, for the camers, up to a given point, and then backed off, later editing the film:
you may be missing the point-
and that point may be to lure the likes of you to get him even more publicity- kinda brilliant really.
i am more likely to be skeptical that he filmed and faked it that i am to believe that he filmed it but he would rather tease all these naysayers that he thinks are just a bunch-a-biatches.
so, i couldn't tell on that site, are those trailers for a fuill length film or video of some sort? what's the gig? anyone?
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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It's impossible to prove MR did not do something he claims to have done, unless he simply admits to having lied about it - highly unlikely. The heart of the matter, IMO, can be found in statements like the following:
"Michael has been pushing the limits of soloing like no other before him. He has redefined what was thought possible and seemingly that's only the beginning." - from cinematographer Thomas Kranzle's website.
This sort of thing fuels the controversy. It's disrespectful to other talented freesoloists, like Alain Robert, Peter Croft, and so many others, who's acomplishments have rarely, if ever, been questioned. Reardon and his PR team are selling him as the greatest free soloist of all time. This is bound to draw the attention of the doubters and naysayers, and to expect anything else is a bit ridiculous. When Kranzle et al say "He has redefined what was thought possible", I think they refer specifically to a handful of climbs that, for some reason, Reardon did alone without anyone to actually verify. You don't have to solo hard 11 to be qualified in your reservations; it's simply a matter of not wanting to roll over and accept everything that's shoved down your throut.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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what if he were just building the controversey intentionally, only to prove it in a movie, maybe one that was for sale, say on the web? hmmm...
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Creaky
Trad climber
CT
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I semi-delurked because of how irritating it was being told that video footage was up of the Vampire solo, only to see it's not up. It's kind of like being asked out to dinner by a friend only to find out dinner is at an Amway convention. I have no doubt that after wiring it Reardon could solo it and would bet he has done so. But, put the footage up already and don't say anymore until you do. It's not that hard to get the video on the site.
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Tahoe climber
climber
Texas to Tahoe
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Look, caughtinside:
1) I don't mind talking about climbing - in fact, I prefer it, so cut the wounded ego trip
2) You're still saying that someone is lying based on circumstantial, at best, evidence. Can't you understand the simple and compelling hypocrisy of saying: "I don't believe that MR soloed b/c I haven't seen it, and other people tell me on these other websites that he was seen toproping something (with slab moves on a hot day)."
You haven't even seen him at all - climbing or NOT climbing.
It's a joke.
3) More of the "evidence" against MR includes a pictorial of him in a climbing mag - hundreds of feet above the ground on a 5.12 climb, but since there isn't one of him on the hardest, cruxiest, lichen-iest, gnarliest stem move, now we don't believe him? Gimme a break, kid!
4) One very respected climber, Bachar, vouches for him. Why don't you believe him again? And by the way, my friend, a lifetime supply of shoes is pretty sweet, not that you or I are good enough to win that challenge. I mean, I go through like 3 pair a year! $140 x 3 = $420 a year. I don't care how good you job is - you can't turn your nose up at that!
5) As I posted earlier - I'm with you on the personal challenge thing. What you can solo is a different, if interesting, issue. I think the fact that this response keeps showing up is related to just the overwhelming amount of hassle that MRs friends have to put up with and see him go through. Since everyone's got an opinion w/o proof, they're just fed the f#ck up.
6) Finally, the Astroman challenge - this is the most distasteful bit of entertainment of it all, to me. What's the big deal, Short Timer asks. Well, the first thought that comes to mind for me is HE COULD F#CKING DIE, that's what!
I know I can climb some 5.12s and don't have a shot at others - sport vs trad, for instance - what if he's the same way? What if he's not into Astroman? What if he just doesn't respond to the supertopoains jabbing and "Climb, monkey, climb?"
Besides, much like the personal challenge bit, it is an irrelevant, if interesting issue, and doesn't prove anything one way or the other.
-Aaron
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 06:33pm PT
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Aaron, without addressing most of your 'points' which are largely nonsense, I'll just say that I'm a bit reserved about accepting one of the boldest onsight freesolos in history, when it has so many question marks around it.
Obviously, whether he did or did not solo RW isn't going to be proved on this thread.
But, there seem to be a number of people willing to post here to say, 'stop posting about MR.' Whatever! He made himself the story, and even if 100% of his claims are true (a possiblity) I'd say he has largely himself to blame for the controversy.
You can rail at people, call them stupid, ask why they don't believe bachar, etc. But what does bachar say? 'he's the real deal' or something like that. ok...
But there are like 250 replies to this thread, so obviously people are interested. I also make a weekly (weakly?) attempt to discuss climbing in tahoe and the leap in particular, that are lucky to get 10 replies. Sorry if you are so personally offended by a climbing topic that has been covered by national climbing publications.
Matt, if it is all to build controversy, then he is a genious/as#@&%e, and good for him!
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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do you think that he thinks you are an as#@&%e?
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Anastasia
Trad climber
Near a mountain, CA
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Blah, blah, blah...
It seams everyone loves controversy. No one ever post this much about mundane events such as a climbing trip to Yose.
Talk on and don't take each other so seriously. Mike is a great guy despite all this noise.
AF
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2006 - 06:48pm PT
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Hey Matt, I really like your wifes 'No W' sticker on her helmet. Do you guys talk about how much you hate bush when you're in Yosemite?
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le_bruce
climber
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Long thread, didn't read it all.
Last year I climbed the Vampire. As my partner and I 3rd classed up to the start of the bat crack, we saw Reardon and P. Mortimer, creater of Return to Sender, racking up at the base.
Very friendly folks, they offered to let us go first, which we declined.
Reardon floated the first pitch. Rather than crimp through the 11a traverse at the start of the second, he dynoed from the big hold to the flake (wasn't that how JL and crew did it on the FFA?). They did a variation to the 3rd pitch that skips the hard and balancy move beyond the bolt and into the seam by skirting way out right and up the face. He told us later it was because he was looking at it for a solo variation.
Me? I could barely get the hard move to the anchors at the top of p1. Fell on lead from the crimp traverse on 2 and had to gain the flake from below. Couldn't stick the move into the seam on 3, falling while cleaning a small tcu that my partner placed. I nailed that 4th pitch, 5.9 though.
As I dogged under the small tcu in the seam, Reardon hollered over (while down-climbing something in the gulley): 'Hey, I don't remember a no-hands rest right there?'
Just busting my balls. Got a laugh out of me.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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CI- i admit that sometimes, while climbing in yosemite, we do talk about bush, but it's usually a red and oily bush, the kind w/ square stems and leaves in threes. if you wanna know more, you can ask your buddy seth.
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Creaky
Trad climber
CT
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"It’s funny how the biggest naysayer is always the one you never see at the crag. You can check out the video of the Vampire yourself at www.freesolomovie.com."
Put the video up!
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Cali Mt Bum
Trad climber
CA
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If you really want to check out what MR has been up to go to freesolomovie.com.
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brett kassell
Trad climber
san jose, ca
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no one wants the purse...i'll sweeten the pot if there is interest...considerably so......i don't see another fs repeat for another 5 years minimum. Peter Croft remains the ultimate free soloist in our era. period.
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