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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Springdale UT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 11:57am PT
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People who are watching are probably less impressed with the fact that there is so much energy being put into ripping on two decent guys who established one route outside the bounds of ultimate ethical rigidity, when it isnt attracting traffic, or creating higher impact.
If this route had caused accidents, major environmental impact or a real eyesore, then the bitching would be warranted. The only injury here seems to be one of pride and the desire of a few to impose their standards on the many.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Whoever said that place would get climbed out in one season just because these guys did a bit of rap bolting is so full of sh#t its absured. has GU even been repeted once? You guys sound like a bunch of paranoide scizzos...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
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I feel the SFHD, could be climbed out in one season if people decide rap bolting is cool. I believe this face is clearly a limited area and needs to be protected and secured.
This is another case where 2500 posts are summed up in one line. This is really the crux.
If this route gets to stay then I get to come down and rap my own line on the face. Who's to tell me Sean's route can stay but mine can't?
Arne
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
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I feel the SFHD, could be climbed out in one season if people decide rap bolting is cool. I believe this face is clearly a limited area and needs to be protected and secured .
As long as you have to hand drill in flint hard granite, this will not be the case. Long hike, much work, pound, pound.
Peace
Karl
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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This just get funnier...Peter Haan wrote: Bob D'A, let's keep this clear. There has not been a first ascent yet. This amazing route has only been done in two completely separate segments and understandably. What a huge climb it is. So a First Ascent is awaited.
Peter wrote: That's right Josh. Seanster has not climbed---no one has climbed---the line entirely free. Nor has the route been climbed as a whole.
So every big wall (20 in the Black, 15 on the Diamond and others in RMNP) I ever done I did from the ground up with no fixed ropes or aid and I get lectured by Scott on how I should train/climb and get told that I don't "walk the walk". Funny shit!
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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No, but since I can't really free climb much over 5.10 this appeals to me. I'm in fantastic shape and I'm stoked for a project. In fact I relish the hard work, since I can't really climb it anyway.
Arne
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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If you are going to elliminate GU for infractions of style and ethics then by extension there will be an awful lot of other routes around the country to eliminate as well include some classic Bridwell routes.
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Llewelyn Moss
Big Wall climber
Ken Kesey's place at La Honda
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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maybe there are none of us left, the last of a dying breed
Coz, my suggestion: prunes... electric scooters... Depends... books printed in extra large print... then a good deal on a shaded plot and modest granite headstone overlooking the Sierra foothills. Dead! Its all over, buddy. Beautiful sunset
Everyone: there is proud GU sending going on by people who don't give a sh!t about the "old school" and "the dying breed"...
ti-i-i-ime is on my side, yes it is!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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Can we confirm, with rigorous honesty and put on the record, that every bolt on GU was in fact "Hand Drilled" and that absolutely no power drill was ever applied to this route?
Reminds me of some Fox News BS...
Can we see Obama's birth certificate too?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
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ding ding ding ding
TKingsbury wins "post of the thread" award
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:47pm PT
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"Everyone: there is proud GU sending going on by people who don't give a sh!t about the "old school" and "the dying breed"..."
Whoa llewellen way to lay a big steaming coil of harshness.
Last time I checked Coz was still alive and still kickin' it. Same with Bob D, Donnini and a large number of other geezers. And, though I have been told to donate my body to medical science so someone could get some use out of it, I am also still kickin'. Where will you and the "stud patrol" be after more than four decades of ascending?
"ti-i-i-ime is on my side, yes it is!"
No it isn't. The only time you have is this fleeting moment.
In time you may be the next of the "old school dying breed".
And you will come to respect the proud heritage you benefit from.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:55pm PT
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Wait...my birth certificate reads District of Columbia.
Does that make me not a citizen of the United STATES?
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Apr 26, 2010 - 12:57pm PT
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Yes Doug, that would be the case. But no one will believe you without seeing the birth certificate. How do we know you were not born in Toledo. You could be a secret Mud Shark.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:17pm PT
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Come to think of it, I haven't even seen my birth certificate.
For all I know my American citizenship is nothing but an elaborate family conspiracy.
Maybe I was really born in Pakistan, then snuck into the country kind of like the way those oil Sheiks were supposedly whisked out of it in the no-fly days right after 9-11?
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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You do have a beard.
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Llewelyn Moss
Big Wall climber
Ken Kesey's place at La Honda
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
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"The dying breed" (not my words) had its time. It planted the seeds for "Growing Up"... and shuns its warped progeny.
In an old nebulous mind, events and histories float, mix, and vanish altogether. The bitterness of "the dying breed" bubbles to the surface. Where does it come from? How unfortunate the "old school" doesn't have the time to change paths!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:32pm PT
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LMoss wrote: The bitterness of "the dying breed" bubbles to the surface. Where does it come from? How unfortunate the "old school" doesn't have the time to change paths!
That is a pretty generalized statement and pretty far from the what is true.
I was at the Gunks reunion last year and someone asked Jim McCarty what he thought of the "new breed"...nothing but compliments came out of his mouth...he is not the only "old school" climber that feels that way.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:41pm PT
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Scott...I don't make rules and f*#k off with condescending backhand remarks following with I'll have a beer with you.
I don't need your approval on any type of climbing I do and we can debate who has actually done more for the climbing community.
Redpoint is not a traditional term...plain and simple. It implies previewing, falling, hanging and aiding before a clean ascent (not weighting the rope).
So are there different "rules" for big walls then shorter routes when talking about traditional climbing and who made them??
Scott wrote: You my friend are not a Valley big-wall climber.
Your arrogance is beyond belief.
I free climbed a number of big walls...ground up, no fixed ropes, no jugging.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2010 - 01:42pm PT
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How about some guys rap down from top of Mt Everest and put up a sport route, LOL.
Hahaha, wouldn't that start up a huge strange sh'it storm? :-)
Anyways ... the new talent I see now is unfuking believably good now.
It's all theirs now, and they are going to do it their way ......
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