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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Bullarolas
Big Wall climber
Barcelona
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 27, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
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Hi people, and sorry for my english,
What do you think about Jensen's information? Jim Beyer lied? Recently, two spanish guys repeated the climb and here every body still talking about the hardest aid climb in the world. I'm writing about how climbing magazines and all that stuff are creating "climber-gods" to sell more and bla, bla, bla.. so, you know, as more opinions I could have it would be cool.
thnks
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 27, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
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Ok I give my opinion.
Blah, blah, blah, and more blah.
You like ..... ?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 27, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
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What did these climbers think of the route?
Did they find mudded in shallow holes?
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Sep 27, 2008 - 10:40pm PT
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I've seen serious route enhancement on a lot of his routes
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 28, 2008 - 02:10am PT
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Who cares?
Pero, donde es este... y es "choss," si or no?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
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Sep 28, 2008 - 09:05am PT
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Hey, MadB1, I was at the Fishers, well, it's been years now, when this Colorado Dude climbed that thing......
He, too, was disappointed...A6 does Knott exist.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 28, 2008 - 09:27am PT
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Seems to be a bit of drift going on here.
Lets get back to the issues brought up by Bull Areoles, although I wish he would clarify his report.
To me the most important is the reconciliation between Beyers' assertions and subsequent reports.
I mean, this IS a climber's forum, right?
(or did someone want to work Sarah Palin into this somehow?)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 28, 2008 - 10:08am PT
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How many ascents has this route had? When it comes to hard aid, it could be hard to determine the sins of the first ascent party and the subsequent chickening of the folks who came behind. We can assume that ones who do the most damage might be prone to keep their ascent (or attempt) quiet.
That doesn't mean Beyer didn't "cheat." How would I know? Aid climbers are nuts. It feels like Beyer naturally took pleasure in the prestige of his image as the world's hardest aid climber. Probably Jensen and Smith had some egoic motivations in sending this "worlds hardest aid climb" in good or better style to put to rest the perhaps unjustified stigma of the Wings of Steel Episode.
What happens when our concepts and fantasies bump up against hard (or chossy) reality? Depends on the person.
Climbing has a way of putting a dung heap on a pedestal but that's one way of going about it: trying to be top dog and then other dogs come sniff.
Best wishes to those who climbed with integrity and know it and also to those who fall short and live with it. We're humans and we can always evolve. Even the most honest and bold climber might need to evolve to keep climbing from being an ego game that never quite satisfies.
Ironically, some folks might not look at this thread (assuming its some OT political musing!)
Peace
Karl
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Bullarolas
Big Wall climber
Barcelona
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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wow.. I see here in the usa the nature of some net-climbers is the same as in Catalunya/Spain.
That's what I like WBrown, this inestimable information about you: gotta too much time, isn't it?
Thank you Piton R. I'm working on it, so have friends in common with them and gonna put an email and ask. I'll tell you in supertopo when know it. But this is another part of my quest. I clarify. I read this:
http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=17573
and if you don't know spanish there are things like: "the hardest aid climb in the planet... the only A6 of the world, blah, blah, blah" (I love you WB. ;) So I think it's interesting to do the job the journalist that wrote all that didn't do before.
"To me the most important is the reconciliation between Beyers' assertions and subsequent reports. " For me too, but i'm investigating why Desnivel (spanish climbing magazine... hope you guess where is Spain, better than J. Mcain does...)didn't do it. My aim is not Beyer's "cheat".
Thank you Jensen, I've been reading your post before asking in supertopo. I know you haven't make "an amazing whopper" so... I just wanted to have more versions of the "thing".
Thank you Karl B. for your time. It's rare that any one climbed the Intifada doing a mad work before Jensen and Smith. Also drills filled with mud are not the only rare thing in Intifada.
"Aid climbers are nuts. It feels like Beyer naturally took pleasure in the prestige of his image as the world's hardest aid climber" I think that's the point. I just want to "confirm" it with as much people as posible.
Thank you Chief. It's sad but it happens all around
thnks
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 28, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
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As long as people think bashing their way up the rock is cool (especially the pin-heads that think that having an existing route is justification) then you will see more like above,..
(Why does the photo itself look so familiar,.....)
So, (sorry to call you Bull areoles) I don't get much from the article but perhaps you can inform us what your countrymen found.
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