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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
BanDecho
climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2009 - 11:01am PT
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Has anybody done the East Buttress descent off of middle cathedral in Yosemite this season?
It looks like there maybe quite a bit of snow at the rim and I would like avoid having to dig through two feet of snow to find the rappel anchors.
Cheers
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Apr 20, 2009 - 11:32am PT
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It is very very likely there is still a lot of snow in there at this point.
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monolith
Social climber
Albany, ca
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Apr 20, 2009 - 11:36am PT
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Saw a couple parties on the East Buttress of MC Saturday. Talked to a guy who did Lower Cathedral Spire and from the parts he could see, saw no snow on the descent.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 20, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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I did this descent about two weeks ago; the rap anchors were easy enough to find and some downclimbing on snow was required. I imagine that after this weekend (with several parties on EBMC) that pretty good steps will have been kicked and it should be NBD.
Descent shoes with good traction (cleaty new trail-running shoes) outperformed worn-down sticky approach shoes by a considerable margin.
More soon on this...
your man in the gully
Rob
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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Looked up the descent gully (Cathedral Chimney) from the road this weekend - plenty of snow in it still.
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dustonian
climber
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Apr 20, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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plenty of snow but melting quick and a bunch of parties were gangbanging it this past weekend
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 21, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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My partner and I climbed the East Buttress on Saturday, April 18th. Only the left bolt in Clint's picture below remained. We backed up the potentially bad bolt with a stopper and left a couple of strands of cord in other places to assist with rappels/lowers. Lots of snow in the gulley made for an easy descent.
upper anchor - left hanger a little bent. right hanger is gone.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 22, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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The most useful thing for the snow in the gully is a 4' stick/"ice axe"...snow was pretty soft and I was able to plunge-step pretty quickly. Partner in shoes with less traction was less comfortable and had to face the snow and kick steps. Since I was cool with it I would just lower him from a good rock on the side stance or off the anchors, drop the rope and hike down, it worked out pretty well.
He's from Washington, I'm from GA...go figger.
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BanDecho
climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2009 - 01:32am PT
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thanks for the information
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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