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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 26, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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I have very little experience with bolts. I've placed a few, but I have a ton of big wall projects and I'm looking for some advice on the size/type of bolts to use. They will be placed in compact alpine granite. Most will be used for anchors, but I am sure there will be a few spots where they will be need for protection. These routes will not be seeing a lot of traffic, but they will see a ton of bad weather. I'm climbing cleaning and equiping for free ascents. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
Ryan
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 26, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
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I'd say for belays, nothing under 3/8" 2 1/4".
For lead bolts, it's easy to tell someone to hand drill 3/8" bolts from a stance into granite, but I'd say use your discretion. It's a pity the 5/16" split shafts are no longer produced. They can be drilled fairly quickly and are very strong, but aren't the best bolt for longevity.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 26, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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With SDS bits you can hand drill 3/8" holes pretty quickly in granite. I would say Stainless Steel (SS) and nothing shorter than 2.25".
Bruce
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
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Right on, thanks. So Fixe, Rawl, Petzl are all good options?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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In granite, stainless steel wedge stud type bolts are good, and cost about $1 each (Simpson, Redhead, Powers are some of the brand options). For hangers, I like the Petzl Coeur (fairly small but plenty strong); there are many other good options.
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crøtch
climber
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Feb 26, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
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Are you drilling by hand or by battery?
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GRJ
climber
Juneau AK
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
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I will be hand drilling on lead.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Feb 26, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Hand drilling on lead....
I use 1/4in split shaft rivets, plenty strong for the job. You can easily pull them and re-equip w/ something else later as you stated you were going to be doing (for free climbing that is).
Even with a SDS drill bit, a 3/8in bolt takes way too long to place when drilling by stance, especially if it's a desperate stance. Speed is your best friend when drilling on lead. If time is no issue or your drilling on aid, well then....
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Feb 26, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
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there is nothing better than the red head stainless thread heads that you can pick up 3/8 x 2 1/4 for between 1-2 dollars depending on the price of steel mixed with the cheapest hangers you can find. acmeclimbing.com has stainless hangers for like 1.50 a piece. Very nice. I like the redheads because i usually drill on lead without hooks and the redhead can be placed in the hole with one hand, hammered in, and tightened and clipped whereas the Rawls require two hands.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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