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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 17, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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OK, Tuolumne obscurity masters:
Just left of Hobbit Book is a sharply right-leaning thin hands crack that leads to some old bolts. People sometimes confuse this project/route with Middle Earth (which starts quite a ways left up a fist crack). These bolts go a little ways up the face then disappear. It looks like if it was finished it could go (or have gone) up and left to join the crack of the 2nd pitch of Middle Earth.
Anyone know anything about this old project or completed route?
The bolts are old rusty quarter-inchers.
We replaced the bolts on Middle Earth last year.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
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Here's a photo - the green line is Middle Earth, the purple line is the unknown route/project. Ring any bells for anyone?
[The blue line is Stomper and the red line is Mordor, a new route, details at http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org/index.php?topic=215.0 ]
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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Anyone?
For more Mariuolumne obscurity, if you go left from the bolt on Hobbit Book and up the face, it's a fun, golden-plate face that goes at 5.9 R or so...beta from Peter Croft.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 01:50am PT
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Good idea, but Whalin' Dwalin is in the Reid/Falkenstein guide: it starts just left of Middle Earth on Serrated Edge, goes left of the corner, then goes right (crossing Serrated Edge) and up between M.E. and Serrated. Probably doesn't get done much as the crux pitch says "loose blocks" and might be tricky route-finding (since the top of Serrated has nebulous route-finding). No bolts on Whalin' Dwalin either.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:31am PT
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I have no info on that project but I can tell you about some routes my friends & I did in the steep gully you descend from. You can just see the gully on the left margin of Greg's photo. The gully is very overhanging and is about as steep as the gully to the right of Hobbit book you can see in the right part of the same photo.
The wall has several very steep cracks & the most obvious one is a 80' finger & hand crack with 3 bolts. It goes to a chain anchor at the top of the wall and is 5.12A. It needs a full, single rack of cams to 3-1/2". I believe we finally decided to call it "SAR-Chasm". It was established on lead in 2001.
A bit to the left is another striking crack that had mini- left facing corners & straight in cracks that went at 5.11B. I forget the name.
On a slab/ramp to the left of this is a 5.8 route that climbs wide cracks & face climbing to the top of the ledge that defines the top of the wall. One could access the other routes via this route, if desired.
There is more potential in the gully for some steep, difficult routes on quality rock. The drawback is you have to hike up past Drug dome, past the Razorback area & traverse over to the Sar-chasm. It's just before you turn the corner for Hobbit book, Middle Earth, etc.
I have no pics of these I can post, I have prints but no digital pics, sorry!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
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Cool Levy! I was wondering if anyone had done anything up there. I guess the best approach is to take OZ to Gram to Serrated then down the gully (he he he...)?
How about that "evil chimney" just left of Shrouds Have No Pockets? There must be a story there!
edit: found a pic of the gully:
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 18, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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Funny, I tried to hike up the gully to the R of the Hobbit Book this fall. Eventually it got harder than I was willing to do. Some old rap slings and some steep walls but nothing to write home about in there, just another day in Gollumland you might say.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
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Good idea Rhodo-router, not surprised that got nasty. Looks very sketchy when coming off the top of routes on the Nazgul wall (especially when you come up to the left edge of the top of that wall, and you have to go up the ridge with the overhung drop-off underneath you). I guess people have probably rapped down from that notch between the main wall and the Nazgul wall.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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