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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 20, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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I think that they are supposed to be designed to hold a fall, but i have never tested it.
Anyone here ever taken a whipper on one that was fully open?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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Good question, they are supposed to deal, with that...
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tooth
Mountain climber
Guam
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Jan 20, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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I have never placed one that way. Can't get it to sit still while I climb past.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jan 20, 2009 - 07:31am PT
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Send it to Walling.
He'll test anything.
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Jan 20, 2009 - 07:43am PT
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Yes, I have, on a fully opened green that I slid in behind a horizontal crack from the side. I fell from about 4 feet to its side and about three feet above. I'm still here.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jan 20, 2009 - 08:44am PT
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At the most, that would be a FF 1.6, really less because of the swing, and this assums the the piece was the anchor, i.e. 8 foot fall on 5 feet of rope. OTOH, it could also represent a 0.04 FF - 8 feet on 200 feet of rope.
:-)
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jan 20, 2009 - 09:45am PT
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I threw a #3 Pre-C4 onto the pull tester a while back and it held 18.8kN in passive mode with a quicklink through the hole in the stem. Failure came by way of the axles bending to the point that one of the end plates popped off. Mind you, this was _after_ trying to break it in active mode in 3 different positions, all of which had the sling fail before the cam itself (point being that it had been very abused and probably had bent axles prior to the passive test). BTW, all of the active tests failed above rating.
One of these days I'll get around to putting together the report for this on over in The Lab on RC, but I misplaced the video a while back and what fun is it without the video?
-a.
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KlimbIn
climber
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Jan 20, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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Placed a new #2 C4 like this recently -- man oh man was I sketched. The only thing I had that fit there. While climbing above it I kept saying "it says it will hold in the manual".
But no proof 'cause I didn't fall.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Jan 20, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Seems I posted some of the pics and info from the #3 in with the test of a pair of U-stem camalots....
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For comparison, here are the axles from Cushman's #3 pre-C4 (report coming in the next couple days). Notice how they're the same diameter (0.248") and one is reasonably straight while the other is rather bent, rather than both axles bending like on the U-stem unit. And just FYI, the bent axle is actually straighter than it had been... It took a 24oz hammer to get the axles out of the head (I didn't want to cut it off) and the cam failed in passive mode at a peak of 4298 pounds-force (19.12kN) after having the sling fail during two earlier tests at different amounts of expansion (16.94kN and 15.65kN, and the axles remained undamaged).
On the pre-C4 model, the opposite axle actually rides slightly inside of the arc cut in the cam lobe (sorry, no pic). This allows the opposite axle to bear directly on the cam lobe and share in holding the force. You can clearly see evidence of this on the lobe from the #3.
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