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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 6, 2008 - 12:50pm PT

Sorry the pics aren't great but at least its climbing not politics. The route was fun and we had an awesome day!

Pitch1 starts with a very nice 5.9ish crack. The Tork slot looms above.

Higher the crack ends but is replaced with enjoyable knob climbing, easy 10. But soon the knobs stop coming but the cruxes don't.

The second pitch starts with a difficult 5.11 move into a nice finger crack, although, the slot above keeps your attention. An easy traverse left and up gets you into a steep finger and hand crack, hidden amongst vigorous ferns, before the daunting slot.

Getting into the slot is the puzzle of the climb. The slot creates a little wind tunnel adding to the excitement but also cooling you as you try not to thrash.

The slot is very short, keeping calm sees you back into the sun shine in no time.

scuffy b

climber

Elmertown

Oct 6, 2008 - 06:36pm PT

Nice going. How's the descent?

Jerry Dodrill

climber

Sebastopol, CA

Oct 6, 2008 - 08:20pm PT

Where is this? I'm lost. Looks fun.

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2008 - 10:53pm PT

Scuffy, the descent is three raps with a single 60.

Jerry, The route is Mixed Messages 5.11a on Wawona Dome and yes, it was a lot of fun.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Oct 6, 2008 - 11:02pm PT

Nice Job, you're tearing up the dome. What are the slot moves rated? the crux is slab?

Peace

karl

Tork

climber

Yosemite

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2008 - 11:16pm PT

Hey Karl!

The slot would be the crux for most but 5.9 or no harder than 10a for an ow hardman. The hardest move is off the belay on the 2nd pitch getting into a finger crack 5.11a or b but one move. The first pitch has a lot of 5.10 slab climbing also 2 slabby mantles.

When ya gonna join me up there?