Road To The... erm... where?

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
GraemeK

Big Wall climber
Ontario
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 17, 2008 - 11:10am PT
Hi.

A friend and me want to build up to climbing a wall.

We have read the Road to the Nose and other documentation. We are new at the aid climbing game, and are thinking about something for next year.

We have a great training schedule we put together and we are pretty calculating in most everything we do.

The problem:

What are really achievable goals for new wall climbers - we are from Ontario so don't have the luxury of having good routes close by - we will need to travel. I was thinking Zion (before getting to the valley), with perhaps Space Shot as a first wall goal.

Can anyone suggest a tick list of routes that seem sensible for complete novices at big walls?

Cheers, Graeme.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 17, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
How about the VMC Direct Direct on Cannon Mountain, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire? It's a lot closer than Zion.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
bump, 'cause they guy needs ideas and I ain't got none!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
Baffin Island is close to you. Ton of walls there. Not sure about the travel costs to getting there from where you are tho. I'd rather go to Baffin than Yos, any day of the week!
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
Go to the local crags and quarries and do laps. Lots of laps with ropes and hardware and packs and sh!t. Add VMC Direct and Mental Blocks on Wallface. Then head west. Worked for me - many many moons ago.
GraemeK

Big Wall climber
Ontario
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
Thanks guys! This is awesome!

VNC Direct Direct looks great! I've considered Mental Blocks but not got to it yet!

Laps it is! I composed a training schedule for me and my bud which I shall talk him through on our way to the Adirondacks on the 1st Oct!!

He's not convinced about my plans for aid/big walls, but he'll come around!

Best, Graeme.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 17, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
I'm with twisted. The laps are good, but the freight handling and aid practice is even better.
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Sep 17, 2008 - 05:18pm PT
What? The LinkedIn info wasn't good enough :)
GraemeK

Big Wall climber
Ontario
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Yes, the Linkedin discussion was very useful. However, I love to reach out to as many people as I can because many experts frequent many different boards... You'll notice there is different feedback here - its amazing how many people there are in the world!

Thanks for your help guys - appreciated.
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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