Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
originalpmac
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
|
Hi all!
I might be trying to climb the Lowe route on Angels Landing this fall with a buddy of mine and I was looking for some recent beta. My Zion guidebook is vague which is nice, but for the Lowe route... WAYY vague. says it has gone clean but people still nail? whats the deal? I have close to zero nailing experience so I don't want to go blowing out placements cause inexperience.
any info? gear suggestions? anyone?
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
|
|
Pretty sure its clean as a whistle. Offsets wires and Aliens are your friends. Don't use cam hooks in sandstone.
Bring pins and you'll use them....leave them at home.
|
|
originalpmac
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
|
thanks HDDJ. I have heard that about cam hooks in sandstone. you see Bart around Groom Creek still?
|
|
Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
|
|
Getting to be the perfect time for it. River's low. Route is shaded. Mornings are cool.
Should be copacetic as long as a touron doesn't land on you.
|
|
crackfiend
climber
|
|
climbed it last fall.....goes clean easily..bring offset nuts and cams. dont even bother with a hammer or cam hooks....
|
|
More Air
Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
|
|
Great route, you'll love it. Bring mostly small & medium stuff. The last 2 pitches are a surprise...
|
|
originalpmac
Trad climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
|
thanks all for the beta. might be a slight change in my plans cause this was hinging on me and a friend borrowing a ledge from another friend, who we can't get in touch with, cause he is off climbing somewhere outa state. (and we can't blame him) anyway, are there many routes in Zion with bivy ledges on 'em? i know those walls seem pretty sheer, but I can't afford to make the drive to the Valley this year. any input is greatly appur'ciated. this is also going to be my first big wall, so no burly test-pieces. 5.10 C2 range. thanks
Pierce.
|
|
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
|
I always bring a hammer on walls. Cleaning wires that are set into rock can be really hard without one. With a hammer you can just lightly tap the nut head to unset it and pull it out. Yanking up and down on small wires (especially your precious offsets) should be avoided at all costs.
And I moved up to Flag so I haven't seen Bart in ages. Who is this?
|
|
crackfiend
climber
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
|
There is a shop here in springdale called Zion Rock and Mtn /Guides and you can rent both a ledge and haulbag there.... you can get their info online...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!