Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 23, 2008 - 01:44pm PT
|
Anyone else fortunate enough to have some sort of rock close enough to the office to get a climb in during lunch once in awhile? Our local rock is loosly bonded fractured ocean sediments, so not the best rock, but 15-20 minutes from the office, and my definition of the lunch "hour" occasionally exceeds 60 minutes. Quite a few ice climbs in the winter, and with southern exposure the rocks can be climbed almost year round, when they aren't wet.
Most of our routes are 1/2 pitch if that, but this one ridge offers a 4 pitch scramble with a newer 5.9 first pitch, or the established 5.7 start, and the subsequent pitches are 5.4-5.8 depending on which way you scramble. My partner took me up the route last week using the 5.9 start and mentioning he often solo's the route. It planted the idea in my head, and with our first week of sun and clear sky's this week (minus the smoke from fires in Russia and dust from storms in the Gobi desert that makes the pics hazy) I was getting amped. A good hike on Monday with lots of sun made me realize I needed to motor down yesterday.
The approach is around the ridge up a gully not seen in the first pic. I started to traverse out on the 5.7 face, but realized I really didn't want to free solo a route I'd never done, with a chance I'd get off route. So I went further up the gully, traversed on where the power lines cross the face, still leaving me with the top 3 pitches. The climbing on the upper part of the ridge is basically bolder problems sepperated by ledges, and the higher you climb the better the rock gets. With the sun beating on the rocks for hours it was downright toasty. The only downside was after topping out I really didn't want to go back to the office, I wanted to just lay down on the rocks, soak in the rays, enjoy the view, and climb it again.
|
|
Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
|
I work in view of Parkline and a short drive from Cookie/Arch. Now if I could just find a damn partner....
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
|
Must be nice. Probably doesn't beat Werner's lunch routes though.
|
|
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
|
Being in the valley and not climbing at lunch, oh man that's almost criminal.
Boulder, rope solo, free solo. There is no excuse.
|
|
Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
|
Yeah, I'm in EP, but still. It's painful.
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
|
Great views. I went skiing at Aleyska (sp?) once, did I drive by your cliff?
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
|
Nice pictures tolman_paul. Yikes for any cars that drive by, eh? Especially like the shoes! I got some serious stares the other day with the same shoes. Finally the young guy staring turns to me and says, "don't see any shoes like that anymore." My reply, "I know, I thought about bust'n out my EB's but opted for these." I had to explain what EB's are...too funny!
I work a couple of blocks away from a city park that has two artificial boulders that have great routes. Although not nearly as inspiring as your 'hood, it provides a lot of mid-day stoke. We often are able to take an extra hour and go do sport routes in St. George on sandstone.
Makes for a great lunch, eh?
|
|
tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2008 - 08:16pm PT
|
On the edge, yes that's about 1/3 of the way to Alyeska from Anchorage. Under admitting my own crimes, somehow we never made it out the Alyeska this winter, and we had some tremendous late season snow and weather to enjoy it.
I picked up the sportiva's as a pair of gym shoes years ago. They were a size too small and hurt like heck after about 1/2 hour. Which is why when I soloed the route today I pulled them off to give my feet some reprieve.
My oldest boots are a pair of Asolo's, at the time the only option was the Asolo's or Fire's, and the asolo's fit my feet better. I sent them off early this year for a re-sole / re-build, and the cobler sent them back saying they were too far gone. Bummer as they were big enough to wear with socks and perfect for all day climbs. I just might have to get a re-sole kit and give it a go myself. I can handle the midsole inserts being cracked, just need new rubber and rands.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
|
That is totally sweet DD! What a great thing for the community. I'm going to scope out some buildering around town, we got limestone building out the arse, I know there's climbin' to be had.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!