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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Macabre Wall
This wall contains 4 to 5 pitch Trad routes that are mostly easy.
There is one very nice exception, the Macabre Roof is rated as a 5.12 c/d FA Greg Lowe, 1967.
School Room Wall South End
(Classic Tree Crack)
It has several mix routes set up in the 60's and a few sports routes set up in the recent decades. It has also one unrepeated route by Greg Lowe called Drop Zone 5.11+R.
Indian Trail Limestone
This wall only has four routes on it and is marked for future development.
Pass or Flail on the North End of School Room Wall
This route was first climbed by Greg Lowe in 1965 and was considered to be the hardest route in the country. it was first rated as only a 5.9 but today many consider it to be a 5.11b and 5.12b.
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"As for what's for dinner" at the Union Station on April 18th, Friday night...
Full service menu:
Salad;
Fresh mix of spring greens with dried cranberries, pecans,
large chunks of feta cheese and choice of dressing
Main dishes:
Portion of wild salmon with dill crème friache and
Sliced beef tenderloin medalions with a mint demi glace
Served with oven roasted asparagus brushed with olive oil
Asiago and scallion stuffed red potatoes
Mixture of homemade rosemary foccacia bread or whole
wheat rolls and butter
Dessert buffet with a choice of:
Decadent chocolate ganache cake or
New york style cheesecake with assortted toppings
Two cash bars will be provided with liquor, wine and beer.
Complimentary beverage stations with punch and water
will also be available.
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To check out the incredible artists being presented please visit this site!
They are fantastic!
http://www.ogdenclimbingparks.com/pages/Artists_and_Photographers.html
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Short Biographies of our Special Guests
“Pat Ament”
Pat is an artist, inventor, musician, climber, writer, poet, and philosopher. He is ‘The Renaissance man of climbing” and is known for his intellectual, spiritual, and physical achievements.
As a climber, Pat Ament in the 1960’s set new bouldering standards. He made significant climbs in Colorado and Yosemite, including the first 5.11 in Yosemite.
Pat also set standards for writing with his books on various aspects of climbing. His original guidebook High Over Boulder, set the benchmarks for guidebook precision and accuracy.”
“John Bachar”
For many years, John was considered America’s strongest and most daring rock climber. In every sport there are men, myths, and legends. In the world of rock climbing and free-soloing without a rope, there is only one name that fits all three: John Bachar.
“Dick Dorworth”
A former U.S. ski team racer and coach, as well as a world speed skiing record holder, Dorworth was one of the leading figures during the 1960’s ‘Golden Era’ of ski racing. Dick is also a mountain guide and pioneering climber. He has been described as THE writer of the mountain community.
“Jeff Long”
A veteran climber and traveler in the Himalayas, Long’s writing career has been diverse: novelist, historian, journalist and screenwriter. Jeff is the winner of too many awards to list and writer of several New York Times Bestsellers.
He says: "Some use maps, some use words, some their bare hands. In that way, I like to believe, we make ourselves from the wilderness.’”
“Lynn Hill”
Lynn has long been one of the top rock climbers in the world. Winner of over 30 international sport climbing titles, Hill has accomplished feats in climbing at which climbers of both genders marvel. Her 1994 one-day, completely free ascent of The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan has yet to be repeated by any climber, male or female.
“Jennifer Jordan”
Award-winning journalist and filmmaker, Jennifer shares stories from her research expeditions for the film Women of K2. Her book on the same subject, Savage Summit, won many awards. Jennifer spent much of the 1990’s at WGBH FM in Boston, where she anchored National Public Radio’s ‘All Things Considered.
“Joe Josephson”
Pioneering ice climber and mountaineer, Josephson has recently turned his full attention to authoring and publishing guidebooks and select writings of important authors, such as Dick Dorworth’s Night Driving. Jo-Jo’s excellent Winter Dance set a new standard for ice climbing guides.
"Pete Lowe"
Local boy Pete continues a long tradition of Lowes in climbing. Recently, Pete established a hard 5.14 sport route at Causey Reservoir.
"Warren Macdonald”
In April 1996, Warren was camping in northern Australia when a large rock fell on his legs. Macdonald survived the accident, but lost both of his legs. Nevertheless, Warren climbed Cradle Mountain only ten months later using a modified wheelchair and the seat of his pants. He has gone on to many other great feats, and has become a best-selling author and highly coveted motivational speaker.
"Pete Takeda”
Big Wall Pete, as he is known to many, began his long climbing career as a Yosemite ‘dirtbag.’ Takeda went on to redeem himself through his writing and alpine adventures. His award-winning book, An Eye at the Top of the World, epitomizes the spirit of our event. It has everything: part CIA spy-thriller, part personal journal, a lot of climbing, and even more adventure!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Apr 16, 2008 - 04:27pm PT
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the second looks ok the rest look like junk. But I have no Ideal what kind of rock this is.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Hmmm... Jeff and Greg Lowe liked them...
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Colby
Social climber
Ogdenville
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Apr 16, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
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Indian Trail limestone and Macabre Wall pictures are reversed.
Schoolroom is good. This wall was heavily developed by Mike Anderson between 2000 and 2005 (but I think he likes choss considering some of the stuff he does in Zion).
The limestone is actually the junk.
Pass or Flail is 5.11d.
I really would like to know where this Drop Zone route is. I doubt anyone in Ogden, besides Jeff, knows its location.
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Thanks!
If you really want to know... Just be at the climbFest to ask Jeff, I am sure he will be happy to explain to you where it is.
Hopefully I will see those of you NOT at the SushiFest here in Ogden!
Big Smiles,
Anastasia
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SteveW
Trad climber
State of confusion
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Apr 17, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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Anastasia
I empathise with you all there, you're all going
to miss Sushifest IV:XX, Santa Fe style.
Edit
PS How do you know Jello will be out of jail????
:-)
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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We did manage to get his bail paid!
LOL
Kind of hoped it wouldn't happen since I was looking forward to seeing him in a bright orange suite.
Ahhh, maybe next year.
As for SushiFest, next year we must not have the events scheduled at the same time or...
We need Nature to do it here.
Now that would be extremely fantastic.
Big Smiles,
Anastasia Frangos
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Apr 21, 2008 - 01:37pm PT
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Anastasia wrote: "It has also one unrepeated route by Greg Lowe called Drop Zone 5.11+R."
Back in the early '90s we all didn't even bother ... because ...
(1) didn't know exactly where this was at (just general idea); and (2) it was rumored to be more X than R rated.
Not much new stuff was done on the Schoolroom back then either ...
There was still plenty of good stuff left to do up Ogden Canyon ... there was a community Bosh Bulldog that would give us only about 1 - 1 1/2 holes a charge in the bullet proof quartzite. There was no way(!) we'd bother walking up to the Schoolroom to get only a hole or two in. Would've rather bouldered.
Some of the best quartzite anywhere!!
Enjoy!
burp
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