peyote dreams - zion

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic

jack herer

climber

veneta, or

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2008 - 10:05pm PT

any one know of a more updated rack for this zion wall? i dont care too much about beta unless you really wanna spill it. mostly just wondering how clean it goes and how many pins should go up with us.

thanks in advance for not going off topic in this thread.

Rudyj2

Trad climber

Feb 19, 2008 - 10:23pm PT

For what it is worth, maybe not much, as I climbed it ten years ago.

The rack of cams and clean gear pretty much got buried in the haul bag for most of the route. You could talk about our rack of pins in poundage rather than how many. Great position on the wall but many of the cracks were pretty beat out. Hard exterior shell to the cracks and the wall in general but very sandy inside once the nailing begins, so many placements are boxed out. Curious how clean it could go with more modern clean gear.

Great experience anyways. Off the beaten path these days maybe?

John Mac

Trad climber

Littleton, CO

Feb 19, 2008 - 10:31pm PT

I'm not familiar with this line, where about's is it? Thanks.

Rudyj2

Trad climber

Feb 19, 2008 - 10:55pm PT

Right Twin Brother. NW face, if I recall correctly.

deuce4

climber

Hobart, Australia

Feb 20, 2008 - 11:12am PT

That Eric was a bad ass. He put up some nice routes in Zion. Any word on his wherabouts?

John Fowler

Trad climber

SLC

Feb 20, 2008 - 11:47am PT

We went up on Peyote Dreams last fall with only a clean rack and got to pitch seven on the topo. With our huevos that was the end of the clean climbing (C2+) so we went down. There was no real trickery to that point, plenty of small off-set nuts and hooking (through the rivit ladders)and a good variety of cams. If you are going to hammer, a small diverse selection of pins should get you through and keep the adventure level solid. What we did was great and for Zion the rock was solid.
Have a great adventure.
John F.