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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:10pm PT
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Welcome to comp climbers heading out the exit sign of their gym and coming to the crags.
Get used to it, the floodgates are now OPEN!
Cheers
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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That's great! Some will stay sport only, some will migrate to sport/trad of which a few will discover alpine. Climbing will be the better for it.....as you say, the floodgates are open.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You have a point Ron....climbing gyms have greatly increaed performance but have been detrimental to the overall climbing IQ. Gyms teach what is necessary for gym safety and do not address the myriad of new risk factors that come with the great outdoors.
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skywalker
climber
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Good for him! I'd like to watch someone do something like that in person. As someone who has been climbing 25 years my onsight ability (or hardest onsight) has been the same grade trad as it is sport. Beyond that grade I botch a sequence, etc. Even trying to redpoint something its not much harder. As the grades keep getting pushed I keep shaking my head saying "how do they do that?!"
Wish I knew how to do that.
S...
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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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My thoughts are that the gyms often foster safe habits. I cringe at how i learned to climb 26 years ago (ie read a book and go try to not kill myself). There are clinics, outdoor climbing clubs organized through the gyms, etc. (things like the RedRock Rendevous, etc.), that are all
attributable to the increasing popularity of climbing.
Sure, the idiot quotient will go up because you have a larger sample...
Another factor is that climbing is now approached as a sport instead of a lifestyle...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Good point Ron, what are you doing personally to mitigate that? How many young men and women are you mentoring? ;D
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Gyms are killing climbing as we know it. Video killed the radio star
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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My thoughts are that the gyms often foster safe habits.
Uh yeah, keep telling yourself that.
Leave yer dogs and kids home, or at least at smith rock!
my poor attempt at humor these kids are making me feel ancient.
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burntheman
Trad climber
slt
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climbing .14c doesn't just happen because you climbed in a gym. for every bit of physical prowess you need an equal counterpart of mental dexterity. to climb hard is lots of times climbing smart. to climb this hard by 13, is likely a culmination of genes, conditioning, practice, learning from experience, mental preparation and execution, and great mentors.
now i can't say that i haven't seen unsafe climbing practices with folks who have belay cards tied to their harness, or speak to hordes of gym taught climbers - but to say the kid in the op is doomed if he transitions to other facets of climbing is forgetting how he has already accomplished so much. you don't unlearn that sh#t.
could you imagine climbing .14c at 13 and getting a RON A reception on the taco. what joke. quit hating.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I know you have Ron just giving you a hard time :) I agree there is a disconnect with some gyms regarding their attitude towards educating and the responsibilities they have to their members.
Gyms should not be held liable on paper, but there should be more effort to make sure local crags are cleaned, anchors are replaced/updated and climbers are informed about safe habits needed outdoors.
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willm
Social climber
Oakland
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... while wearing a watch and being belayed by his mom. Style points awarded.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Little kennyt at 4
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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Ron...
He has expressed no interest in that. Trust me, if he did, when he's a bit older (ie. can drive himself), your concept of hard (5.10 in the Sierra) will disintegrate...
We are just witnessing the vangard, that is all. My boy, also 13, absolutely crushes crackclimbing...
It is the power of youth, coupled with PSYCHED coaching, members in the local climbing community (meeting place: Gym or crag) that mentor these kids, and parents that are willing/capable of providing opportunities.
You won't know what hit you...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Do you homeschool?
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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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Me? No...
Drew is a great student. Loves climbing... So Mom and I said "No grades, no climbing"...
Straight A student in honors classes...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Climbing= good tool
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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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By the way, Kenny...
Love the pic! I remember those days oh so well! :-)
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skywalker
climber
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Hmmm, maybe we should just put a few rolls of Charmin or Quilted Northern in their underpants. I sometimes do that too (you should see my highball pad)!
And we can talk about (insert very experienced badass, R.I.P.) et. al.
The kid climbed 14c! Good for him!!!
S...
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SeaClimb
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Ron,
Are you assuming no instruction? Again, that is a bad assumption. Who in their right mind would hand a kid a rack and walk him over to something? Most of the gyms in this area (Seattle) offer classes and camps, and instruction in gear, anchors etc.
Still the best teacher is experience. And everyone has to start somewhere. This is a dangerous time for anyone, but obviously, the climber who can CLIMB has a lot more reserve for learning than the poor noob who is trying to learn to climb and protect himself at the same time (never a winning combination, but many people, like me, paid their dues this way).
In reality, i think statistically there is no difference. I have been arguing this with HealyJ for a looooong time. Its just there's more people climbing which increases the likelihood of more idiots being present. Said idiot will still kill himself doing something else.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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There will be some crossover of course, but adventure climbing will still attract many. There's a big difference in doing a 2,000 foot 5.7 in the mountains and performing 5.14 or V14 in the gym or on small rocks. I started out in 1954 soloing the east face of longs peak before beginning to focus on small rocks, and the thrill and adventure of such experiences lasted until I quit several years ago. These were dual tracks for me and each had its strong appeal.
Congratulations to young Kai. He represents a future of climbing . . . but not the only future.
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