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Deuce
Trad climber
Sonoma County, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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I am going to Yosemite this weekend and I was wondering if there are any celebrities I should be on the look out for? i.e. Britney Spears.
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
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I've heard PTPP will be in valley. I also here he's willing to autograph body parts... ;)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 13, 2006 - 08:30pm PT
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If you go there tomorrow morning you can watch the Huber Brothers try to break the Nose record.
And if they don't get it, they'll probably be back up trying to break it again within a few rest days.
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:21pm PT
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What's their current time?
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:27pm PT
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I think that PTPP said it was right around 3 hours. I believe the current record is at 2:48 by Holywod Hans F.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:33pm PT
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The Nose speed record is by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. It takes two to go for speed on the Nose.
Slakkey is correct, the current speed record is 2:48:30 .
See Hans' website:
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
Go Huberbaum! If they can break the record, look for Yuji and Hans to return and try to shave another few minutes off the 2:48....
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
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Slakkey I think it's 3:14 on the record, that's what some of the friends I have rigging for them said they were going to try to beat.
Either way if you're in the valley tomorrow morning, it's worth the show. I watched them on 2 of their 4 Zodiac speed ascents in 2004 before they got the number they wanted (1:54) and watching those guys free climbing El Cap that fast is mind boggling. Especially if you have a good pair of binos.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 13, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
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Sorry I forgot Yuji
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:26am PT
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After seeing a Hollywood H. presentation in Mammoth I was left with the impression that Yuji led all the pitches. Hans kind of skirted the question. Anyone know for sure? Will the Hubers swing leads?
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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In speed climbing it is not unusual for one person to lead a number of pitches then they switch. Typically it is 4 to 6 pitches before they switch to lead.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 12:44am PT
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I played pool with Alex and Thomas tonight. I got lucky when Thomas sewered the 8-ball, Alex kicked my ass. They told me they do very little simul-climbing, don't use a Ropeman, and short-fix every pitch. I didn't ask who leads what blocks.
Their best time so far is 3:14. They will be trying on Thursday morning, not tomorrow, because the weather is a bit suspect. They told me they think they might get the record time, but are not bothered whether it's this attempt or the next. They will be around for a couple weeks filming - their speed attempts are in the morning, but they need the sunlight later in the day for filming.
I wouldn't autograph anything on Deuce's bod, but Cybele was very proud of her annotated "JM" carabiner.
P.S. Nice to see you, Werner!
Cheers,
Pete
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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I've heard that WB character is around. You could say he's a celebrity .... in climber terms.
Anders
ps WB not equating with Warner Brothers.
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Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:41pm PT
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Y'all are confusing this guy with the real Deucey.
Ran up the Nose a few days ago and it looks like somebody has ticked the sh#@ out of every hold. WTF??? That's no record in my book if this is how it's going to be done. Yuji had no ticks when he lead the whole thing; in fact, it rained the day before.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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i also don't think hans and yuji rehearsed it as a team. dean and timmy were chucking laps on it and getting faster each time, i wonder how fast hans and yuji could do it if they went up a few times w/ all the ticks and whatever fixed gear may have been added (speaking of which, wasn't that big-deal zodiac clean-up done just after the hubers both raced up and then free'd the rig? or was it the other way around...).
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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Mimi...the "Deuce" that started this thread isn't the
Deuce you think it is...
ie. it isn't John.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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JM - would you, like, want to get together for a beer?
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:30pm PT
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I climbed Zodiac right after the Hubers freed it. It was before the "big clean-up."
There was some fixed gear on the route but not a ton, some heads, rurps and beaks were fixed.
There were tick marks all over the thing, some were way out on the face away from the original line. pretty cool lookin actually.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:33pm PT
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There may be a few tickmarks, but I bet there bloody aren't dozens and dozens of extra bolts added, right next to perfect Alien placements, or placed five feet apart next to perfect A3 cracks, or three bolts within eight feet to protect a traverse, like there are on certain other routes!
Grrrrr.....
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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JM = Joshuatree Masters. As inscribed on prized nuetrino carabiners handed out to attendees of the Stonemasters Reunion. Zip up your pants Pete....aid climbers need not apply!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:39pm PT
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Some folks just pay attention to their own typing. Funny to watch. Notice what I mean, Shack?
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