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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2006 - 07:47pm PT
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Okay, it's not like I've given up climbing. I've been climbing. Some of you have seen me doing this.
But after some injuries and stressful year or so, I kinda gave it up compared to how much I used to do. But, as of this weekend, we are back on.
But, as someone who is on-again, off-again all the time, I get real frustrated with my crapola lead head. I'm bouldering fairly strong for me right now, I've got some study-weight off, and I know I can pull off anything I used to, but my head just isn't there, not even on TR. This makes me always a bit reluctant to go out and actually climb and see how it goes. Then I get kind of embarrassed around people and give up without really trying. (Some of you guys saw me do this at J Tree at the reunion thing, and I was able to send no problem after watching EVERYONE else do it later.) Silly ego.
So, advice, sage masters, please. How does a gal get her head back? Should I scoop up all the beginners I can who will force me to lead for them (while they provide good belays, obviously), or should I just follow a pile until I feel better, or a mix? Or what? WHat works for you guys?
Edited to add: hopefully the falling off thumbnail will not be a problem, yes? :) And the road rash, mustn't forget that.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
St. Louis
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Jun 12, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
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My two cents sent via email...
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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Jun 12, 2006 - 07:59pm PT
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The mix you allude to sounds good to me.
I've come back from numerous layoffs over the years.
I haven't really had much chance to do piles and piles
of following, but piles of leading comparative novices
has worked for me.
Isn't it easier to find folks to follow you up Your Ideas
than to lead you up Your Other Ideas?
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
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Go lead some of your favorite routes, ones you have the best memories of, ones you had the most fun on. Once you start having fun on the sharp end again, the lead head will come back before you know it.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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go with your instincts...if you don't feel solid then you probably arn't, wait till it feels right. leading should feel natural, it should flow, if your forcing through head games then it is forced...probly wise to stick to easier grades until you are confident in yourself.
find a partner who encorages you just enough, but not too much...
have fun!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2006 - 08:11pm PT
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"I haven't really had much chance to do piles and piles of following, but piles of leading comparative novices has worked for me."
YES! I have converted someone to the odd use of "piles"!! Sir, I congratulate you on newfound vocabulary.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
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When the road opens, go lead the first pitch of RRFD with someone who can't. It'll be wet, you'll be scared, but it will be easy (sorry, left that part out a minute ago) but then, on top, you'll get a big boost of confidence; a koan will be experienced, and you will remember who you are.
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:45pm PT
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what I usually have been doing is to go back to why I began.
It helps recharge the good climber in me.
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pissed
Trad climber
Lake Placid NY
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Jun 12, 2006 - 08:59pm PT
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I never thought I would be offering advice to someone like you maculated. From reading your posts here and rc, I never thought I would be able to offer such a knowledgable person advice.
Here is my story. I used to ski race. It is a ridiculous sport. Absolutely crazy. Anyway, I had a confidence issue. I was training so fast. I was flawless in training and I felt good. On race day, I fell apart. I did alot of work with the psychological side of sports and athletes. I was able to tune everything and everyone out and focus on what I was good at doing. It started with havning a clear mind before I took my run and progressed to having a clear mind the day of the competition and finally having a clear mind days before the race. Did this help? My results showed what my training showed. My mental training became as important as my technique on the snow. I read alot of books and took alot of the self examination quizzes, which I thought were hokey at first, but helped alot.
What advice can I offer you? It seems that in bouldering (my case - training) you are performing. On a lead (my case - race day) you are having some issues. Clear your head. Focus on what you know you can do. You have what it takes, you have to let it flow from you. Chuck Hogan, author of two phenominal books, says: be the recipient of the imagination. The imagination he talks about is similar to what a child does when he/she plays. He talks about playing and having our creativity and imagination working, not our mind. Our mind is what gives us the negative feelings. Look for something that gives us good feelings. I hope this makes some sense. If you want, I can give you some references for the books I have used and foun helpful.
Hope this helps/makes sense
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phoolish
Boulder climber
Athens, Ga.
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Jun 12, 2006 - 09:39pm PT
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It helps me to throw a top-rope on something out of my league. That way I can't spare the mental effort to be afraid.
I do get panicky, but only ever on easy routes.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 12, 2006 - 09:51pm PT
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I just spent a year going through this. I kept leading, but nothing difficult. Now it feels good again. I'm looking forward to climbing again. Not sure why that is, it just happened.
Not sure if it relates, but back in the days of chess tournaments, I sucked big time on game day. Finally, I went to a tournament I had scheduled, but didn't care about. I was just showing up for the cheap Vegas room, and going through the motions, not caring if I won or lost. Played my best chess ever that tourny.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jun 12, 2006 - 09:55pm PT
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Just Do It, You will find the strength once you start climbing.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:06pm PT
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Kristin,
After cratering, I was so scared of climbing that when I touched granite my as#@&%e would pucker up and I'd be constipated for a week. The only way to solve the problem is to saddle up, puff out your chest, and attack the rock with as much false bravado as you can muster. If that doesn't work try milk of magnesia. Pretty soon you'll be so run out you'll be shitting yourself.
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Euroford
Trad climber
Chicago, IL
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:15pm PT
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i had a pretty bad lead head last year. i dont know why but after several years of climbing in a fearless fashion something sort of clicked in my head and for the first time i was getting scared on the sharp end. okay, let me rephrase, ive been scared on the sharp end numerous times, but for the first time i was becoming -irationally- scared. aka, lack of lead head.
this year its basiclly gone, for a couple of reasons. first off, i set some goals, rather lofty ones for a punter like me, and after setting them they became very important to me. its given me a reason to push, a reason to train and a reason to accept some risks. the icing on the cake has been that ive taken a couple of pretty good whippers, this has kind of reinstated my confidence in the rope and my ability to built a solid protection system.
losing your leadhead sucks bawls. good luck finding it again!!!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:18pm PT
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:26pm PT
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Hey, city boy! There ain't nothin' chicken about a banty rooster.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:33pm PT
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1) therapy
2) medication
3) stretching/Yoga
4) increased aerobic threshold
5) remember that it's "supposed to be fun" but you know better, and sometimes it isn't.
6) never say never, and always never say always
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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First off, I think you worry too much about what your climbing partners think. In essense, most don't care if you fall off that route and don't think better or worse of you because you can or can't climb. Rely more on who you are and how you treat people and less on what you do and it will all work out.
And I would say that if even the dull end is scaring you, it isn't the climbing that is the problem. So belly up to the rock on whatever end of the rope feels best and get some miles in.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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"So belly up to the rock on whatever end of the rope feels best and get some miles in."
I'd like to have this sentiment printed on a tee-shirt or bumper sticker or something.
Heaps of miles and secure climbing helps me feel the best when I'm inclined to not feel my best.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 12, 2006 - 10:49pm PT
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All said above is easier said than done.
I grounded out 35 years ago and blew my knee completely out. Ripped all the ligaments to hell. Limped around for 3 months (screw the doctors).
I couldn't lead a free pitch for almost 3 years because of the fear of re-injuring the knee and missing out on fun.
One day my partner couldn't lead a hard climb. I knew I could do it but I still thought if I fell I would somehow hit something and screw up my knee again.
He asked if I want to give it a go. That was the day I broke through that weird psychological trauma I had created.
It'll just happen maculated, whenever your ready, just go at it your own pace.
Sorry for the poor English composition ........
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