Black Canyon: A Movable Stone Voyage Route Beta

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
skywalker

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 1, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Hey all,

I drew this up after the first time I climbed the route as I found the topo in the guide book rather vague. After recommending the route to a friend he got lost. So I thought I'd post a topo. I climbed it with my wife for my second time her first and it seemed accurate.

Its a typical Black Canyon affair but rather moderate and quite clean for such a huge wall. I have done the Stoned Oven finish first time (recommended) and chose the gulley/ gnarly looking thing to the left with my wife due to heat (Original Movable Feast Exit?) and going left is NOT GOOD! Thought I was gonna die! Definitely 5.9X loose choss! Better to tough it out on Stoned Oven finish. Star rating??? Well its the Black its always 3 stars at the top.

Anyway I couldn't figure out the route beta post part of the website so I'm putting it here. If you can't see let me know. If you know how to put it in a more useful place let me know.

]
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Mar 1, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
We exited via the left gully too. Gnar.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 1, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
I've done the climb, kinda fun- can't read your topo.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Mar 1, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
Corner, gully, finish on S.O. Is there more to it than that?
Snorky

Trad climber
Carbondale, CO
Mar 2, 2012 - 12:47am PT
Can't read topo

I remember not being sure if we were on the right route. It's a fun start. The peg groove felt really hard at the time (height-dependent stemming maybe?). Womb fight was just that. Don't remember a nasty gully finish. After Womb Fight I don't remember anything actually.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 2, 2012 - 01:59am PT

It really needs a scan or larger photo of the topo....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Mar 2, 2012 - 09:44am PT
Don't even start, Clint- you've got enough on your hands in Yosemite.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 2, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
Too true. :-)
Vic

climber
Mar 6, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
This was a topo that I drew up last year. The one in the guidebook is definitely lacking, but I think the climb itself is pretty good. For us mere mortals it's the easiest line up that section of North Chasm Wall.

Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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