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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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It seems Sierra Mtn Guides web site is down. Anyone know about conditions at Lee Vining? Ice conditions and road conditions? Or know of what web site would have info.
While I'm at it, is there anywhere to rent ice climbing boots east of Davis? (I know Berkeley's Marmot has them, but I'm leaving from Davis).
TIA
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Dec 18, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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I was just in there yesterday. And I work for SMG. Weird about the website. Not that we have yesterday's report up yet. Anyway, conditions are great. Approach: this weekend, with the Tioga Road open, we had choices. There seemed to be no consensus. Low approach vs high approach discussion is basically a wash. Either way is completely dry, and therefore a combo of talus and scree and some brush. On the ice, Chouinard Falls has the middle 2/3rds fat and leadable. Room for 4 (or so...) independent lines, plus thin toproping to the left. With no snow cushioning the ledges falling ice rockets around more than we might be used to there.
[Unsolicited beta/rant] I can speak on good authority that it is possible, in fat conditions, to have 6 or 7 topropes, equipped by cooperative and mixed groups of the public and commercial outfits, on Chouinard Falls. And have bottom-managed belayers on each one all positioned well off to either side of the ice-fall zone. Just take enough rope and be mindful of horizontal forces on those belayers way out to the side. [/unsolicited beta/rant]
On Main wall the ice is too thin for screws on at least the bottom 1/3 of all routes. But there are about 4 lines that are topropeable. I guess we should all be mindful of climbing this thin stuff early and knocking off ice faster than it can form...
Wilson's in Bishop rents ice boots... but that's out of your way too.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 18, 2011 - 11:14pm PT
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Bishop is out of your way, BUT...
Two doors up from Wilsons is the gear exchange store with likely the best selection of used gear in California, all kinds: rock, ice, BC ski. You might luck into buying a pair of ice boots for close to the price of rental.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 19, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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+1 on Gear Exchange. My friend Got a pair of tools for 40$. Great deal to start out.
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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Climbed yesterday, Dec 21. Someone said room for 4 lines on chounard wall. We found 2 ropes a bit tight given falling ice. 4 ropes might go if you have a good helmet and don't mind getting hit by a few strays. We hiked in from the power plant. Dry talus running (or crawling in my case with a fifty pound pack) the whole way. Go as light as possible and wear running or approach shoes. Stiff ice boots don't do well on polished talus. Main wall would go if you have big balls and short scews.
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bleuskyy
Trad climber
fullerton, ca
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Dec 27, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
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12/25/2011
Lee Vining ICE condition
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Logdog
climber
Yosemite/ Truckee
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Dec 27, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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Photo taken from green bridge, only the Chouinard looks in. Like others have seen, the flow above the main canyon, below the windy bivy is super fat, and super low angle.....
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