The Proudest Send of 'Em All

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Burns

Trad climber
Arlington, VA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2005 - 06:47pm PT
So now that the Nose has gone Free in a day again, I thought that I'd pose the question: what, IYO, is the Proudest Send of 'Em All? The Nose? And what are the criteria? Difficulty? Fame? Reputation? Risk? Number of failed attempts?
pc

Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Oct 20, 2005 - 06:56pm PT
Astroman Free Solo
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 20, 2005 - 07:27pm PT
Proudest send of a long free route:

 Salathe' Wall, Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, 1988. So revolutionary and ahead of its time that many people simply could not believe it.

Proudest send of a single pitch:

 Overhaul, Tom Addison, 2003. More than 5 years of attempts. I know there are harder routes out there, but it takes something special to keep trying for so long. I got to belay on a couple of the attempts, so I can't claim to have a completely neutral perspective on it!

EDIT to add:

Proudest onsight:

 Hourglass Left Side, Peter Haan, 1971
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hourglass.htm
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Oct 20, 2005 - 07:56pm PT
"Salathe' Wall, Todd Skinner and Paul Piana, 1988. So revolutionary and ahead of its time that many people simply could not believe it."

In this context what does "send" mean?
the Fet

Trad climber
Loomis, CA
Oct 20, 2005 - 07:56pm PT
RNWFHD FA.

Edit: or maybe LA Chimney.
salad

climber
San Diego
Oct 20, 2005 - 07:58pm PT
knockin up my wife this summer. im living proof that sperm thrives in BOOZE.
ShaneR

Mountain climber
USA
Oct 20, 2005 - 08:37pm PT
Steve House's solo of K7 must be mentioned. Only 1 move of Aid on the massive SW 2500 meter face (1st ascent) and topping out at 6934 meters.
NinjaChimp

climber
Davis, CA
Oct 20, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
How about Wolfgang Gullich's out and back ascent of Seperate Reality sans rope? Or his Waaaaay ahead of his time ascent of Action Direct (originaly rated 5.14a, now .14d).
wildone

climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
Oct 20, 2005 - 11:11pm PT
God, there's gotta be thousands of 'em...

right now, though, I've been totally tripping out on Michael Reardon's palisade traverse solo in 22 hours...
a lot of people don't like him, for good reasons, but I don't care about any of that. 22 hours? GNAR_BALL>
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Oct 20, 2005 - 11:41pm PT
Interesting you mention Mike Reardon. You can like him or not (personally I do) but the plain fact is that he is doing things no one before him would have even considered. On rock, he is the real deal.
Russ Walling

Social climber
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:26am PT
Proudest Send:

Richard Cilley on "The Living Conjuction"

Or-

Mike Paul on "Jaws"

Best I've ever seen.
poop_tube

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:47am PT
North Face Matterhorn

Solo AND in the winter

....not human

WALTER BONATTI!
poop_tube

Trad climber
Irvine, CA
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:48am PT
Or maybe Bonatti Pillar

Solo
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Oct 21, 2005 - 06:30am PT
Wildone, what is the Palisade Traverse? Pitches, difficulty?

The Palisades were the place I learned alpinism. Cool place.
KarlP

Social climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
Oct 21, 2005 - 08:26am PT
Clint, tell us about Overhaul. Web searching hasn't turned up a good story for me.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Ca
Oct 21, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
Yabo on Spider Line, he knew he was gonna die but kept on going and made it. Too scary to watch.
WBraun

climber
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:06pm PT
The devil to hell

So the arrow will always continue to meet the "Target"
wildone

climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:11pm PT
DPatrick- from this month's R&I.
He made the third and fastest ascent of the Palisades Traverse (VI 5.9) in 22 hours. The traverse is an eight mile granite ridgeline which ticks many peaks, six of which are over 14,000 ft. John Fischer and Jerry Adams made the first ascent in 1979 over 7 days after spending a week stocking the ridgeline with supplies. In june 2004, Scoot McCook and Adam Penney made an honest second ascent of the traverse taking 12 days after they spent a week caching supplies. By comparison, not only did reardon climb solo, but completely unassisted, carrying all his supplies with him.
He did the whole travese in cotton t shirt and jeans! (with a few warmer articles in his pack).
He didn't bring an ice axe, crampons or rope.

One thing I don't get though. I thought Peter Croft did the traverse a few years ago, and blazingly fast, yet, no mention of it?
CanuckClimber

climber
Calgary, Ab
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:18pm PT
I believe Peter Croft did the Evolution Traverse, could be wrong though
Dragon with Matches

climber
Bamboo Grove
Oct 21, 2005 - 01:53pm PT
Hermann Buhl digging deep and pushing on to the summit of Nanga Parba after reaching the false summit and seeing he was like a zillion miles from the true summit. Meanwhile his teammate was back at high camp with the food and Hermann's sweater.
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