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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2010 - 01:38pm PT
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like for north peak and dana cols..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 29, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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I don't think it is available in northwall/hammer configuration.
So you'd be swinging two tools, both with an adze.
A better pairing would be one Sum'tec & a hammer version of the Aztarex (Petzl's light weight alpine tool).
Similar to the set up on the Sum'tec, but not slidable, it also comes with a stowable leashless pommel/appendage, called the Gripswitch.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jan 29, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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I have a pair of aztars for that sort of thing. Soloed the dana couloir several times with them and a couple of the NP couloirs. Climbed a bunch of other alpine ice stuff with them. A buddy uses them for waterfall ice too.
Petzl is changing their lineup next fall though, so they will be on sale big time come spring.
Get a lot of experience following ice before leading dude. Falling on ice on lead you can catch a crampon and that can break your foot and/or ankle real quick. Bad at an ice crag, but very very bad in the backcountry.
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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Jan 30, 2010 - 12:50am PT
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Apparently there is a Sum'tec hammer in the works - not sure if it's going to be available in the fall or not.
I've played with the sum'tec in the store and I find the little flippy lever on the back of the hand rest digs into my palm. Very nice tools, but I didn't like that bit. Have a look at the CAMP Alpax - same sort of concept (lightweight alpine snow/ice tool, with a modular head and removable handrest) - they're very nice, and cheaper.
The Aztarex, is pretty nice, but it seems like the sum'tec will replace it soon, and the hand rest on the aztarex is very hard to take out/stow in the field.
Graham
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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The Sum'tec sliding pommel looks pretty cool. It would be fun to swing the tool and do some placements in ice to find out how it feels and works for you. Note that GrahamJ found that the flippy level on the back of the pommel dug into his hand. That kind of thing might become bothersome on a long route.
Suggest you borrow various tools from the friend(s) that will leading you up these couloirs and get a sense of what works for you. A hiking/mountaineering ax (Sum'Tec or Black Diamond Venom or the like) and a real ice tool with a hammer head for your 2nd tool would probably be a good combo.
I have used a variety of hiking and mountaineering axes on the Dana couloir. I'm fairly tall (6'2") and a 50cm ice tool is too short for me on Dana without stooping a lot. With the exception of one late November crossing of the schrund, a single ax has been sufficient for my ascents of that couloir (my soloing partner used his ax and mine to get over the schrund and then tossed the tools down to me for my turn). Other people carry and use 2 tools each.
For the last several years, I've used a Black Diamond Venom ax and an old style Viper leashless hammer as my 2nd tool in the mountains for easy stuff, steeper than Dana. Some of the mountaineering axes are great for glaciers, hiking, and snow, but flail on ice. For instance, my Raven, 11oz Cassin DragonFly, and 50+ yr old classic Stubai axes are nice for hiking, peak bagging, Mt. Shasta, hanging on display on the garage wall, and such, but are far less confidence inspiring on ice. The Venom serves well as a mountaineering and general couloir tool working on snow and ice, and the real ice tool (Viper) is there if I want it.
On North Peak, Gilbert, V-Notch, and Mendel right couloirs, I have used a mountaineering ax paired with a short tool, and on other occasions have used real ice tools. The real ice tools (Black Prophets, Cobras, and Viper) were much, much more fun. Same answer for steeper gully ice and water ice: much more fun with real ice tools.
Ditto what rhyang wrote -- get lots of experience following on ice before leading it. Also, don't solo.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2010 - 10:12am PT
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The flippy thingy can go up or down to lock in place so if it's under your hand, you're doing it wrong...
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll take a look at the aztars hammer...
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Your hand kind of slides down when hanging on tools (think about the spike less pomel on nomics) in leashless mode...I've heard the complaint about the toggle from a couple of people.
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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